Step 1: Gather Materials Materials: new brake pads brake disc lube (high temperature synthetic grease) Tools: floor jack or other jack lug nut wrench assorted screwdrivers and pliers My two cents: Brake pads come in several flavors 1 organic -- old style asbestos 2 semi-metallic -- fitted to most new cars 3 metallic -- usually used on race cars 4 ceramic -- the New New Thing in brake pads Step 2: Raise car and remove wheel Using a floor jack or your car's emergency jack, raise the wheel off the road. Remove the wheel to expose the disc and the brake caliper. If you're doing front brakes, you may wish to turn your steering wheel to afford better access to the caliper. XXXTRA SAFETY TIPS: put car in gear apply parking brake chock wheels stash road wheel UNDER the chassis while you're working on the brake. That way, if you have your head stuck in the fender well and your car falls off the jack (against all odds), the chassis will fall on the wheel, and hopefully your head won't be squished like an overripe cantaloupe. Step 3: Remove retaining pin safety wire Step 4: Remove retaining pins Now, remove the two pins which actually hold the brake pads in place in the caliper. Step 5: Remove pads Now withdraw the pads, one at a time, from the back of the caliper and remove shims to be placed on new pads. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w219/CHEMSOLDIER27/DSCN0233.jpg Step 6: Inspect new pads Now for the moment of truth: Get your new pads out of the box, and compare their shape to the old pads. If all is well, go on to the next step. If all is not well, then you're scrood, because now your car doesn't work and you have to go back to the automotive store Hope you've got a bicycle or a moped handy! Step 7: Compress piston Since your new pads are obviously much thicker than your worn-out pads, there's not enough space to put your new pads in place. So, you need to compress the piston back into the caliper. !!!MAKE SURE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE CAP ON THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR AND PUT A RAG AROUND IT JUST IN CASE ANY FLUID COMES OUT!!! There are many ways to do this; probably the safest is to use a C-clamp around the piston and the back of the caliper. I couldn't do this, so I used a GENTLE prying technique between the caliper and the piston. The best thing to use is the old pads. Make sure you use the correct pad for the correct side to keep from scarring rotor surface. Be careful not to scratch, mar, or bend your brake disc. And be careful to exert pressure *straight* on the piston, as much as possible. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w219/CHEMSOLDIER27/DSCN0235.jpg Step 8: Test-fit pads Test fit your new pads into the caliper, to verify you have compressed the piston sufficiently. Step 9: Replace pad shims My pad kit came with new pad shims. So I removed the old shims and installed the new. These shims carry all the braking load from the side of the pad, to the caliper. So make sure to lubricate them with high temperature synthetic disc-brake grease. I applied a moderate layer of grease between the pad and each shim. ALSO IMPORTANT: This should be obvious, but DO NOT get grease on the pad surfaces!!! Step 10: Install pads Install the new pads into the caliper Step 11: Install retainer pins Very lightly grease the retainer pins with disc-brake lube, grease the holes they're going into, then install them into the caliper, through the holes in the pads. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w219/CHEMSOLDIER27/DSCN0231.jpg Step 12: Install retaining pin safety wire Step 15: Reinstall wheel and test Get in the car and pump the brakes a few times. Since the new pads were installed with a loose fit initially, your brakes will feel squishy for a few strokes until the pads come into contact with the disc. When the pads come in contact with the disc, the brakes should feel normal and firm. If all is well, slowly road test the car. Congratulations! You just got your hands dirty, and saved a couple hundred bucks. Be sure to dispose of all used brake materials in accordance with local and state regulations. I bedded my brakes by getting on GA400 and braking hard 3 or 4 times from 60-20 then riding a few miles with useing my brakes so they would cool after bedding. :wavey: Be sure to keep a look out for my DIY on how to change springs.:wavey: