It's been a while since I've posted. I've had so much going on lately that I haven't had time to do much of anything. But, I've finally committed to my 2003 WRX Wagon Hybrid build. Once I get a little more time and organized, I'll start a build journal. Just like I feared that it would happen, my low budget DD/ Fun build has turned into an all out, bank account draining, WAY over budget monster. . My initial goal was 300whp and reliability. Now my main goal is just keeping it together (reliability). Lol Wanting some feedback and recommendations on the overall build and parts I have, and the ones i plan to order this weekend. Mainly if someone has FIRST HAND knowledge that something I'm using or planning to run is not right for the set up or if there's a better part to use for the build. Chassis/ Suspension: >HAVE- I have a brand new 07 STI 6mt and drivetrain (axles, Rear Diff, hubs, etc) with full Brembos and 2 piece aluminum hat slotted rotors F/R, DSS 1 PC Aluminum DS, Whiteline F/R sway bars, WALK/ anti lift kit, links, GT Spec 3 PC subframe kit, Complete (as in EVERY single bushing on the car) Urethane bushing kit >NEED- Clutch and flywheel; Recommendations please!!!!, SS brake and clutch lines, Coil-overs and Top hats; I need feedback. I'm not wanting to go over $1500, has to be pillow-ball mount. Strut tower bars F/R; undecided Engine/ Power-train: EJ257 block with Darton Sleeves, 99.75 custom pistons, I-beam rods, stock heat treated STI crank, all ARP hardware. 2.0 Heads with full p/p and CC work, +1mm Supertech valves, GSC beehive springs w/ TI retainers, seals, guides, stock cam gears, NEED RECOMMENDATIONS ON CAMS-was thinking GSC, BC, or Kelford 272s Also haven't decided or bought yet/ Need recommendations: Turbo- looks like I'm going rotated now with EWG Headers- looking at Borla- equal length. Intercooler- ??? Cooling- haven't decided on Rad or new fans, etc.... Misc- Cobb BCS, AP V3, Cobb BOV/ BPV, 1000cc Injectors (or 1300cc??) I know I forgot to list some parts I have and parts I need, but this is just a brief overview to get some opinions and feedback. And since it's 3AM, my brain has shut down. Thanks for taking the time to read this! And I haven't forgot to call you yet BReel! Lol
Clutch, What style driving and what power? Those need to be answered first. I wanted something organic for driveability. Exedy stg 1 HD would be a good choice (I may exceed its power rating), ACT is pricey but you can get the HD pressure plate or XT and it can take quite a bit. I ended up with a Comp dual face disc. Really depends on the turbo, and use of the car though. Lines, I'd only use something coated, especially if you ever think you'll rally Goodridge has the phantoms or stoptechs are. There are others just don't know the brand names. Front strut tower is a waste. Look how close the towers are to the firewall. The corner reinforcement keeps them pretty stable. Rear is meh, its a wagon. Mine was always in the way so I got rid of it. Engine sounds crazy. Whats the goals? Sleeves mean you want over 600hp or want to run 30+ psi of boost. If that is the intention consider your headstuds, either arp 625+ or some 13mm studs machined into the block. I opted for GSC cams because their service has been great and they are in the US. Ditch the cobb BPV and get a tial if you are going rotated. Injectors too, go big or go home. Your block will handle alot, it'll just depend on your goal. 1000's are good for most on 93oct, if you start messing with e85 then I'd start with some DPI 1200's or ID1300's. A drop in walbro should be able to supply those. If you go much bigger, you'll need a dual pump or surge tank setup. Really depends on if you want a cool dude custom kit or take it out of the box and put it on kit. Perrin's, ETS, and P&L all have complete kits. Others need little details filled in. Mine didn't come with turbo lines or nipples on the intake, but is higher quality. There is a nice tigwerks setup on NASIOC by user blake1 . He has a front mount and all for it. With the compressor cover he has you could use a GTX3076R or a GTX3576R.
Thanks so much for all the info. Originally, my goals were 300hp and reliability for a DD. But now, reliability (I know it's relative) is the only requirement still on the list. As far as a power goal. I no longer have a specific number. I'll be disappointed as hell if it's only in the high 300s, but instead of really stressing on the final WHP, I'm focusing on getting everything "right" the first go around. Does that make sense? I'm getting lost in the details of the build now and since the is my first Subaru build, i want to make sure that I don't forget a really important detail or do something that will contradict performance or reliabilty. Use: I want to drive the car, so street manners and "drivability" are at the top. I may track it just for fun a few times, but not often. I take VERY good care of my cars and don't "beat" on them, although I do drive hard at times (allegedly). As far as clutch/ PP/ FW, I don't care if the pedal feel is more than stock, just that engagement is smooth and release is clean. Definitely organic, and full disc and not puck style. FORGOT: This question this AM, I'm using a Fluidampr (I put one on everything) and have an Act steel lite weight flywheel (13lbs I think). Do you think stop/ go drivability will be ok, depending on clutch?
Oh forgot one of the most important details!!! The car will be driven on 93 octane. I'm sure it will have E85 tunes just in case, but where I live in Adairsville, E85 isn't readily available. And I'm thinking of doing custom fab FMIC. I do want to run a reversed intake manifold for efficiency. My only "musts" are retain foglights and factory AC! Lol.
Sleeves equal unreliable. you really throw the dice with them and hope one doesn't drop and leave you with headgasket problems. Buy a new case so you take the least amount off the liners or have it closed deck if you are worried about cracking it. If I were you and stressing reliability. I'd do a nicely balanced motor with some 4032 wossners and a dom 1.5 That would give you 400ish, maybe more with cams. and leave you right at the cusp of driveable but not breaking stuff.
And that is exactly what I want. My block hasn't been bored for the sleeves yet and is still at the stock 99.5mm D. I was wanting the sleeves for "insurance", but if the sleeves will possibly cause more issues, I'll scap them off the build sheet right now and save a good bit of $$$.
Fuel system question: When is it needed to upgrade the Fuel pressure Reg and stock fuel supply line (tank-to-motor)? Fuel system: What are your thoughts on the fuel system I've "designed"/ decided on? -most parts are Areomotive- -325LPH fuel pump that's hard wired to the battery (with switch and inline fuse) -inline fuel filter -adjustable FPR -Fuel Rails and lines/ parallel system I know #4 is bad about leaning out and can cause major problems on a modified engine without the correct fuel system set up. That's why I'm building a parallel system to hopefully prevent that. Will this set up provide the rails with a constant pressure (no spikes or drops) or should I install a diaphragm as well?
You want reliability then ditch the sleeves. If the bore is still stock I'd do some good 4032 alloy pistons and a Dom 1.5R. Easy 400 hp engine that should last if it's tuned right and maintenanced right.
The block is a new OEM. Running 99.75 coated. We are going to in-house fab an EFR 7670 twin setup. Dealing with getting the chassis swapped over and suspension bugs worked out now.
And reliabilty , I'm trying to talk myself into, is relative at this point. I'm just extremely OCD and detail focused. Tends to make me crazy most times.:naughty:
For the SS brakelines, I would go with Goodridge (the Phantom is not worth it). Will you be changing the fluid as well at the same time? I would go with either ATE blue or Motul 600 coilovers with tophats under 1500...that's tricky but maybe perfect for what you are looking to do with the car. I am not exactly sure how much it is but I believe Feal is around that price range and is one way adjustable for the compression which is enough for mostly a DD. And I think they are made in US.