I somewhat recently installed a 18g/880cc injectors/DW 65c fuel pump in my LGT. Install and tune all went pretty smooth. However, i have been plagued with a small fuel leak that seems to be getting worse now. Symptoms -It seems only within 3 gal of a full tank i would get a raw fuel smell in my garage after being parked overnight, this would go away as fuel depleted. -The fuel smell is specifically at the passenger rear side of the car, and only on the exterior, not in the interior. -In the last couple of days, with a full tank obviously, the leak is now bad enough that fuel is starting to puddle enough for me to see it in the AM. I have yet to be able to personally see the leak, everytime I check it either appears to be clear with some odor or a puddle is there. I draw the conclusion that the PO442 is due to the fuel leak, today is the first day this CEL has come on. My best guess is i pinched a fuel line doing the fuel pump install?? Does this sounds accurate? What would your next steps be?
I wouldn't think you messed anything up during the pump install, as you've stated you only smell gas on the exterior of the car. Honestly, i'm not sure what steps to take, as the fuel system (leaks specifically) is not something I want to deal with, I took my car to AllPro (and it caught on fire on the way up there). I would be very careful, at least the exhaust pipe is on the opposite side, though. Upon inspecting the puddle in the AM, where was it at in relation to the tank? Don't they have the pressure systems you can run, similar to emissions gas cap inspection, that can test the integrity of the tank itself? That would at least tell you if it the fuel cell or something past the pump, be it the lines or seals some where.
remove the wheel and inspect that area, probably right after filling up. the fill hose to the gas tank runs along that wheel well
Well fucking damn. Does appear to be the gasket as fuel is pooling around the gasket edges. Was thinking "well hey maybe i just didnt get enough tq on those little nuts or they loosend." Proceeded to brake a damn studd off. To allpro i goes i guess, are those studs somewhat easily replaced?
I dont think so from what I remember. It might be easier to just replace the tank. You can find that at Junkyards for around $100. The labor is a pita though.
use a new seal torque nuts to 38.4in-lb hint... no where near the point of twisting a stud off also tighten down the same way you would a wheel when installing the pump assembly. Check the flange for flatness around the bolt holes. If distorted then you stand a good chance of having a continuing problem with fumes and/or leaks. no choice but replace that along with the tank.
So for replacing the tank, you have to remove the entire rear sub frame correct? What all does that include at a glance?
It is a PITA especially if you dont have a lift. One of those jobs that it might be worth paying someone to do.
Eddie, what is such a PITA about it? I guess im not grasping the overall process. Can you shed any light for me?
Pretty much everything on the rear lower part of the car has to come off. Diff, Driveshaft, Axles, most of the rear suspension, etc.......
Not to mention if you have fuel in the tank the mess and awkwardness of dealing with it. I had to remove the tank on my old DSM......never again. I'd gladly pay someone to do it.
not the greatest thing to do on a weekend and sometimes is cheaper to pay somebody else to deal with it.