HOW TO: Motor Mounts

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by sobe_death, Mar 9, 2010.

  1. sobe_death

    sobe_death New Member

    Tools needed:
    14mm socket and wrench
    Various extensions
    Ratchet
    Small 2x4 piece of wood
    Floor jack (or transmission jack)
    Pry bar

    Ok so when I got the '93 Legacy, it had a certain.... disconnected feeling about it when I accelerated. It turns out, the motor mounts were in the excellent condition you see here

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    That first one was completely separated and dry, meaning all the fluid from inside had long ago been drained. The passenger side (#2) was just barely holding on by a few mm of rubber and had just a little bit of fluid in it, though I think it was power steering fluid.

    I picked up the STi Group N mounts for it. They are solid rubber, and decently hard. These should work on every Subaru with an EJ series engine.

    [​IMG]

    So first, get your mind right. Have a V8
    [​IMG]

    Once under the car, you'll need to remove the lower motor mount nuts. they takes a 14mm socket and extension.

    [​IMG]

    You will then use your floor jack or transmission jack (if you have a lift) to raise the engine 2-3 inches. Place the 2x4 on the jack pad and raise the engine using the oil pan. You may have better luck by unbolting the transmission crossmember mounts as well, but mine were bad as well so it didn't keep the engine from raising.

    [​IMG]

    You will now have better access to the front and rear motor mount bolts on the engine. These also take a 14mm socket. The rears are a PITA, and you may have to use your 14mm wrench if you weren't able to raise the engine enough.

    [​IMG]

    This is the passenger side mount compared to the new Group N mount. Quite the difference eh?

    [​IMG]

    Repeat for the other side.

    Once you have done this, you will have to reuse the nuts from the OEM mounts to attach the Group N mounts to their mount plates. They can only fit on the plates one way, so it's hard to mess this step up.

    Installation is reverse of removal; Note the Right and Left mounts. Tighten the bolts attaching the mount to the engine to 25.3 ft-lb. Here is where the pry bar comes in. You will need to lower the engine to get the studs on the mounts back through the crossmember. If you are lucky, they will seat right back where they came. If you are like everyone else, you will have to work around the engine, raising, lowering, and prying to get it to move rearwards back to its proper location.

    Once it's there, tighten the nuts holding the mounts to the crossmember to 61 ft-lb.


    Lower the car back down and go for a smoke test! Did you let any smoke out? Hopefully you didn't, and now you can enjoy your newfound throttle response!
     
  2. Matt

    Matt Think before you post Staff Member Supporting Member

    awesome write up!
     
  3. gotsol

    gotsol Active Member

    nice write up.

    On the WRX it is a real bitch to get to the passenger side rear bolt. So much so that I had to have WJM install that one side with his homemade tool (created just for that bolt.) He hat to raise my engine so high to reach it that he bent one of my DP to MP bolts and created an exhaust leak.

    I have a nasty scar on my finger from where an engine fell and my hand was between the block and the mount.
     
  4. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    Great write up w/ nice pictures!

    Don't be surprised if the stock mounts don't want to come off...we had to cut one of mine off when swapping motors, it was on there so tight a 6-point socket rounded the bolt
     
  5. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    Nice writeup. Although I wouldn't recommend jacking up the engine by the oil pan. Even with using a flat piece of 2x4 I've seen pics of guys bending their oil pans. Your pickup tube is literally mm's from the bottom of the oil pan and that'll crack it or even crush it shut in a heart beat.
     
  6. techlord

    techlord Active Member

    nice writeup and I strongly agree with coolrex about jacking from the oil pan.
     
  7. sobe_death

    sobe_death New Member

    I'll keep that in mind about the oil pan. I guess mine needs to come off to check out that pickup since it already has a dent in the bottom of it!
     
  8. chelli

    chelli New Member

    Nice pictures... i duno much about the wrxs, but on my 2.5 rs, it was a real bitch getting out some of the bolts, seeing that there really isn't much room to play on the passenger side. But definitely a more than 1 person job when lining it back up to drop onto the mounts.
     
  9. Matt

    Matt Think before you post Staff Member Supporting Member

    I scratched my cornea in my eye trying to get the motor mounts out of my RS. had no problem getting the passenger side out. it was the driver side that I had issues with.

    :unamused:
     
  10. Protocol

    Protocol Member

    Passenger side on my GR STI wasn't that bad. Breel and I have a fun time with the driver side one though. So little room to get the mount-to-engine bolt out.

    From how Breel sounded though, his bugeye motor mount removal/install was a PITA compared to the STI.
     

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