I saw this for the iphone, and was wondering if anyone has tried it out? I gives 0-60 times, lateral G's, horsepower ratings, and more. I am going to buy it before the Autocross this weekend to see what kind of results I can get out of it. Pretty cool for 13 bucks I think.
Thats sweet!! Here is a good review... http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/01/dynolicious-vs-v-box-and-dynojet/ Face wants this!!!
ha..that is pretty awesome..i've yet to jump on iphone bandwaggon though...let us know how you like it when you get it..hopefully some other folks have some input on it...then again if they did you'd think/assume/hope there would already be a thread about it
Downloaded before lunch, here are my first results from a run on the way to get something to eat. 0-60mph: 7.37sec 60': 3.21sec @ 26.4 1/8mi: 10.63 sec @ 66.7mph max accel: 1.10G's peak hp: 300 I didn't push too hard, but this is pretty cool in my opinion, seems about right, with stg 2.
I got this about a week ago, and I did three pulls just to see how close it was. I figured out when I got back to work that I had not calibrated it, so maybe that will make a difference, but the readings seem a little high for me: Run 1 Run 2 Run 3 0-60 4.94 7.24 3.86 1/4 mile 13.94@101 15.25@97.9 12.72@109 HP 400 205 464 So there is a pretty big spread, but the middle run seems pretty close. My car only has an air filter with the silencer removed and a short shifter. I need to try it again after the calibration to see if it is a little closer and there isn't such a big gap. I've also never gone to the drag strip with this car so I have no idea what it really does, and I have never dynoed it because I'm stock(ish). I think it was worth the 13 bucks though. I've certainly spent more on stupider stuff.
What % is everybody using for drivetrain loss? What is the generally accepted % loss for a stocking 05 STi?
Wait, doesn't zero drivetrain loss mean crank horsepower because there is no loss from the engine being put down to the wheels?
According to this video (near the end) yes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-DFbJQbeSY And its interesting how its pretty accurate
I broke down and just downloaded this. Did three quick runs with ScoobyBlkWRX. The best results are as follows: 0-10 MPH 2.05 sec 0-20 MPH 3.44 sec 0-30 MPH 4.25 sec 0-40 MPH 5.50 sec 0-50 MPH 6.63 sec 0-60 MPH 7.89 sec 0-70 MPH 9.66 sec 0-80 MPH 11.55 sec 60' 3.78 sec @ 22.2 MPH 330' 7.93 sec @ 59.1 MPH 1/8 mi 11.15 sec @ 76.1 MPH 1000' 1.91 sec @ 84.8 MPH Max Speed 86.7 MPH Max Acceleration 1.69 G's Peak Horsepower 249 HP
On the setup if you look under drivetrain loss it says, "Enter estimated drivetrain loss for use in horsepower calculations. Typical valudes are 15-25. Enter 0 to report wheel hp."
its not the nav being off, its more than likely ur speedo.. even cheap commercial navs are good to 20m.. and Subaru speeds are always 5 or so mph too fast..
My Car. I don't think I consider it overly accurate so far. I know that my car does not make 24x HP. Last time I dyno'd it was at 226 hp. My GPS in my car is dead accurate, and matches my speedo perfectly. I wish I could use the GPS as a 0-60 timer, but it has a 3-4 second delay, so when I start moving, it takes a few seconds to register. If I set my cruise control at any given speed and wait a few seconds, it will match my speedo dead on. When I had Milo's old wheels and tires, I think they were 235s, my Speedo was off by about 3 mph. With my current tires, 225s the speedo is dead on again.
interesting video...but they need to to more runs in more cars with both g-tech and the dynolicious to make a conclusive statement like the host did at the end. I do agree with him though that the g-tech is a pain in the ass...seems like a waste of money to me
PS, I used 26% drivetrain loss when I set up. I did a google search, and the first result I found listed the 05 WRX at a loss of between 24-28 drivetrain loss, so I chose the median. For Weight, I am using the curb weight of the car 3280 lbs, not including my fat ass in it, and definitely not taking into account the other passenger.
I've only taken a few runs since I got the program last week. I'm driving an 05 STi that only has suspension mods nothing done to the engine or transmission. The only change is the intake silencer was replaced with a 180 degree elbow. I originally set the drivetrain loss for 20% and I was getting peak 253whp. I found you can change the % if drivetrain loss and it updates previous data to reflect it. I changed to 26% dt loss and the same run changed to peak 273whp. I did the same thing with 15% dt loss and it changes the peak to 237whp. The program is making adjustments based on the dt loss obviously. So what's the deal? Jason, any powertrain mods? or 226whp stock? Assuming stock it is about 26% loss from 300hp. The program's not accurate from that standpoint. I'm going to see how low I have to go to get 226whp on this run from the other night. 227whp at 11% drivetrain loss.... any thoughts? Should we use 11% to compensate for the program?
Wheel HP shouldnt change though.... it takes x amount of whp to take a car weight x to x. the drivetrain loss would change fly wheel hp.. sooo just say that it takes 200 whp for your car to go to 60 .in 2 secs or something so 300 hp car - powertrainloss-> 200 whp more DRTR loss so 400hp car - powertrainloss-> 200 whp
I don't disagree, I was just stating my observations. It's pretty easy to figure out what the real drivetrain loss is. We just need somebody with whp from a dyno. If Jason is running stock and we use 226 then it's 26% dt loss. If I have 26% dt loss it says I ran 273 peak whp in a stock STi....I wish!
I am definitely not stock. Last time I dyno'd I was at 226 whp and 263 tq. This was over a year ago though, so how accurate that number is, I don't know. What I do know is that I certainly can not put out a peak now, with no new mods, and in this heat of 248 whp.
250whp on a car with 300hp at the crank has a 16.7% drivetrain loss. 240whp would be 20% loss, and 260whp would only be 13.4% loss.
If you look at how the drivetrain loss numbers effects your HP (lower % = lower HP) it would make sense that 0% drivetrain loss would be wheel HP.
0% would give you fly wheel dude.. since you have loss at the drive train engine --LOSS--> wheels so whee; is always LOWER. if you put in 0 loss then you get full engine ---> wheel in turn gives you fly wheel power and not real world wheel power which would have to factor in drive train loss
if I put in 0% then I average 204whp in a stock STi. This would also imply the drivetrain loss is about 32%. I had 20% dt loss entered originally and was seeing an average of about 252whp. I wonder if Doug or Scott have any input on the average stock whp for a STi or typical drivetrain loss. The way this program adjusts whp numbers based on the % of drivetrain loss doesn't make since. It seems to work backwards.
This program is already measuring HP at the wheels since it is calculating on actual acceleration and time. When you enter in your % drivetrain loss, it will reverse calculate your crank horsepower. Using this is like using a dyno. If you enter in drivetrain loss with your dyno numbers, you can calculate crank HP. SO, for THIS program 0% will actually give you WHP, like a dyno. If you have this for your iphone, read what it says right under the spot where you enter your drivetrain loss, "Enter 0 to report WHEEL HP."
I believe this to be correct. If you enter your drivetrain loss it will give you the calculation for crank HP. As I stated above, think of this as a dyno, and if you enter in drivetrain loss, it will calculate crank HP.
Yes. If you go to the drag strip, and get you time and speed, you can go to a computer and calculate the HP needed to run that time with the given weight of the vehicle. Same idea, but also has gForce, and may even use GPS.
I retested mine finally! After calibration, it seems a lot more realistic. HP was between 189 and 207 with the average at 195. I think that is about right for a stock LGT at the wheels. I didn't have enough room for 1/4 miles runs today, but average 1/8 mile was 9.78 @ 77.2 I'll have to go to the track to see how it compares, or dyno. Of course I don't really want to pay to dyno my stock car, so track is more realistic. Now I need a big parking lot to test the lateral G's LOL.
I'm going to recalibrate and use 0% and see what kind of results I get. I won't have it on a Dyno until I get the Cobb AP installed. So it will be awhile before I will have a baseline to test against and my current numbers are useless at that point. 420 has had his car on a dyno and an iphone so he has something to compare it to.