Ming from IXIZ and AOSep

I had the ixizAOSep installed on my car last night. After watching the videos on his website and reading all the local reviews on it, I went ahead and made the leap. Luckily Ming is local to me and did the install for me. I also have some other parts he makes (Hood Damper, Dead Pedal, P-stop) so I am very familiar with the quality of his products and how anal Ming is with attention to detail. When I had the 20G on my car, I would see clouds of black smoke when the car hit full boost. Usually after about a week, the rear end of my car would be a brownish color from the blow by. With the rotated kit, I could barely see out the rear of my car when my car hit full boost. After the installation of the AOSep, no more black smoke blow by at ALL. I even had a friend follow me and he said he did not see any blow by. The install is pretty straight forward if you follow the directions given. The hardest part was making the bracket fit onto the car. Ming mounted the bracket above the p-stop using an existing bolt and screw. He had to drill out the bracket for the screw and used the slots on the bracket for the bolt. He also had to use a longer screw and bolt but it turned out looking very good. Ming also showed me the prototype that has clear windows on the sides and explained to me how his AOS actually works. I wish I took pics of it because it does make much more sense than any of the competitors when you can see the internals of his AOS. Since everything drains back into the motor, you never have to worry about emptying the device and is a maintenance free AOS. I would not see why you would ever have to service anything on the kit.
You can find more info on the AOS below.
http://www.ixizconcept.com/

 

Watched the videos... not sure I understand the principal behind the tests. A proper test would be to put positive pressure on the three lines feeding the air oil separator as they are always hooked up to the crankcase and then a very small amount of vaccum on the inlet side. Would then be interesting to see if anything at all drains.

Also what happens when on a road course.... is that separator more prone to pull oil in on right hand turns when all the oil is pilled up in driver side of the catch where the fittings are?

Please don't take this the wrong way... I am not knocking the product, just testing was done incorrectly. Would be interesting if it actually does work, to have another solution other than crawfords which addresses all the issues I posted above.

 

^ absolutely accurate - real world test cannot be questioned and is the best.
throw anything my way and put my toys to the grinder. if it dont work ill fix it and improve on it. I have no question that the product can be improved but sometime its ready and you have to put it in the field. Just like a race car - it can always be faster but there is a time that it has to race

the way i test it on the bench is probably worst because im pulling everything in including the drain at really high velocity and volume and even the drain is not draining - till i stop pulling vacuum. Its a closed system so the pressure differential is what the AOS sees. On the test bench i have other videos that is more revealing and convincing but the comparisons will put some others in a defensive position and thats not my goal

In actual the vac is much less and the crankcase and head pressure is more hence the fluid will drainback due to the pressure from the two inlines pushing the fluid out. The heads and the crankcase is independent. for the 2.5L engine the drain is also independent.

If you have a built engine with lots of race time then i would add the CCVent to assist on some of the drainback on high G corners - on all normal driving that option is not necessary. Currently 3 race cars have it on them. And i am sponsoring a race car this season

Here is a naziok link (or you can search on iwsti or naziok)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1594337&highlight=ixizaosep

 

Absolutely - i look forward to any feedback
I hate to say it but bad news is good news to me (like i tell my boss - if i dont break anything then im not working hard enough)

Greatest thing is i am in full control of the direction of the product goes. I can close my eyes and lift my chin and earplugs in orifice. Or i can do what i enjoy and make it better. The other great thing is i can customize it to your application. The design is not the same for a 24 hr lemans car and a 11sec car.

You tell me what you want and you will get it

 

How do you figure if you have more pressure on the crank case where the drain is attached, that it will drain back better? The crankcase actually sees more pressure than the head side, which is where you have the drain attached I would assume. Also reading that link says you run a check valve in the drain back to keep pressure from blowing into the drain? How any of this would work on a road course where your at positive crankcase pressure for extended periods with a check valve is beyond me. Think about it... any negative pressure in the catch can will close the drain back valve... while this valve might work on a test bench or under normal cruise and light throttle.. the second you got WOT or for a spirited drive the drain it will remain closed.

Take Crawfords drain back... They have two lines attached to the drain back, this allows more postive pressure to be directed upwards into the seperator while allowing the oil to drain back down the sides.

 

ts, i know about the higher pressure in the crankcase and i do take that into account
the channels in the AOS is intentionally cut to separate in various stages of the mist and higher pressure inlet in the AOS. On the same note how would you think the oil will flow back into the crankcase on the system you show - 1 orifice with 2 lines ?

BTW i know i call it a check valve
but there is more to that check valve than i say
If its just a check valve why would i make one instead of buying one

The best way to see this work is to use clear lines - on my car they are clear but not the prettiest sight due to oil and stuff.

 

I am not trying to be difficult...

I have never had one in my hands to look at, so from the pictures it just doesn't make sense how it would work.

By check valve if you blow onto the drain does it close off?

 

Im willing to put a measured amount of oil in the AOS and let a race car do its lap and when it returns i like to proof that there is much less oil in the AOS than started. - would that proof the functionality ?

On top of that im also willing to use clear hose on the vacuum side to further enhance the proof of functionality that the oil is draining back to Crankcase and not sucked up into your intake which causes all kinds of issues.

 

Technically ALL the oil should be back in the crank case in a lap. That would be ideal.

 

I must say Ming is a great guy and has some awesome products.

 

The clutch stop doesn't do anything beneficial....

 

pEd seems to like it. I have an aweful lot of dead space between where the clutch is fully engaged and the floor. I heard the clutch stop is just a bumper to lock out the dead space, so instead of pushing the clutch pedal to the floor, and using all that dead space, I would push to the stop and then release. Not going to make a huge difference, but it has been something that has always bothered me.

 

I noticed this especially coming from Mustangs. The domestic clutch engages at the floor these clutches engage at the top. It took me a while to get used to. I could definitely see the benefit of something like this.

 

I tested this before installing it in a customers car. I liked the design.