well im certainly glad this wasnt a thread about your ride getting messed up like i thought it was. lookin super clean comming out the car wash! so whats the next step for the 4eat? em?
hahahah, yeah on the fender closest the cammera the reflection makes it look like damage heh but yeah whats next for your 4eat =) im almost done with my ride!
oh is THAT what people were thinking!? *phew* I was all nervous & crud. No, I name the car 'Nails.' :rofl: I mostly do my own detailing, but the local hurricane wash has lots of nice room that i dont get at my house.;p So, right now I got the Randomtech full exhaust. I'm not sure whats next, but I'm 3 payments away from being done, so I'm thinking about lots of things. i'm gonna post a list of stuff I wanna do, and I like suggestions & comments from youse guys on what i'm thinking.
heh go for stage 2 .. its the best way to keep the car reliable! plus 4eat will get around 200 whp with stg2 and well for me thats plenty =)
thanks. The whole mentality of what I want to do to Nails is that I want it to end up super clean. Like, totally subtle & indistinguishable from a stock job if possible. here's some interior stuff I wanna do, lemme know what you think. interior: Gauges Custom bezel & mounts (still trying to decide what & where) ATF temp voltimeter Custom faces on all, fonts & colors to match stock cluster Interior lighting (all very low intensity, like the guage cluster on half, and all recessed) A-pillar C-pillar center console step rails (i'd like to figure out a way to put it all on the interior dimmer, like the A/c controls & stereo) 500 watt Power inverter, hard installed. I'm working on this one now, making customer power outlet to the right of the glovebox in the dash, and in the center console. Metal petals (not standard on the auto ;]) Sound mat to: headliner wheel wells, front and rear doors floor & under rear seat area
The 4EAT has a test port on the side of the tranny that you can plug temp sensors into but my autometer probe was too long and wouldnt thread. There's a thread on NASIOC about which ones worked, I blew up the tranny within 2 months of having the other gauges working so I never got it installed.
yeah, i seen those threads. I got my eye on Nordskog temp guage for the price and availability, but I don't think their sender fits. I had expected to do this with a tranny cooler and a full synthetic flush. That way, I'd tap it somewhere a good reading would be. But If I could get/make some kinda adapter for the test port, that would rawk
yeah, im working on gettigna atf gauge also, just need cash, now that im stg 2.. il be needed a tranny cooler too =/
i found a thread you participated in... but you didn't seem to get an answer there...what'd you end up doing? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=181824 and this one http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=365998
I pay to have my oil changed as a convenience. I went last night to get it changed, left it in the hands of a local big name shop, then went into a store to look around. I went back to the garage and decided to walk back & bother the tech working on my car. As he's undoing the drain plug.: Me: Hey, hows it goin? tech: purdy good, how you doin? Me: Just wondering why you're draining what looks like my transfer case. tech: do what? His supervisor comes over long enough to chew him up a bit and point out that these cars are like Jaguars (???). So I got a free drain and refill of atf along with my synth oil change. ;p
My car is now smoking out the exhaust, but otherwise runs fine. I can't tell the difference between smokes, (except its not black.) I checked stick, cap, drain, etc for signs of frothy oil, but seems to be ok. Not sure what else I can do before I start shelling out clams. Help?
From what I understand the horizontal configuration of these engines allows a little oil seepage here and there. If you get on it before it is warmed up it can happen as well. This happened to me prior to being told to give it a chance to fully hit engine temp prior to driving hard. Glad your coolant is ok. If it doesn't re-occur you should be good. I would still take it to King at 100k for a once over.
has nothing to do with engine design. everything to do with blowby, having 100k miles, letting it warm up, etc
I dont think this was a hard driving problem, as I noticed while idling after 5 minutes or so, not driving. That said, I do usually warm the car up for a good half-minute, turn the wheel, apply the brake a couple times, put it in gear and hold the brakes...etc
I found copious damage to my passenger rear door today before going to lunch. I parked alone. Its not terribly clear what kind of cause. Scratched of different widths and depths, some down to metal. No pattern, different sizes make me think it wasn't keyed. I have no idea. Talk about demoralising...
i just remembered, I didn't want to flash to stage 2 until after I got the plugs changed and some fluids swapped. I guess i've got plans for my day off tomorrow.
So I finally got time with my dad at his shop to work on dropping in the Autometer bezel, the replacement turbo gauge and an ATF temp gauge. I'm still not exactly sure where the sender for the ATF like is going, and searched on the net are producing conflicting reports. Some say put it in the pan, some say put it on the line coming out of the transmission, some say put it on the line going in. None of them give a clear reason that isnt directly refuted by the other POV, so I'm still a bit confused... Pulling out and setting the Autometer bezel in, i could tell right away it was going to fit much better than the knock-off. Which is kind of disappointing as the knockoff is made of what seems to be heavier grade of plastic, and the Autometer is quite flimsy. Inspecting the new turbo gauge and the 1/8th line it came with, and comparing the oem turbo gauge, we traced the short line to the bov where there was a T connection. The oem gauge has a big rubber hose with a little bitty connector jammed into it, and then a simple plastic T fitting holding it together. The new line that came with the new gauge was much smaller than even the connector, and the T fitting basically had the hoses simply pushed onto them. The tips weren't even ridged. mmph. The stock hose doesn't look like it'd fit the new gauge itself either. Looks like a new T fitting setup is going to be called for. Looks like the boost line with fit inside the OEM boost hose, so I'm thinking we could thread it like a protective jacket. unfortunately, parts runs after 10pm on a sunday are fiction, and now its back to work...
Well, I tried running the new line inside the hose, but that proved futile after about 4 inches in the engine side and on the cabin side. So we left the stock hose and ran the line next to it. Also got some big arse ridged T fittings and ran it all together. The operation of the turbo gauge takes some getting used to, since it doesn't read vacuum it doesn't dance as much as that OEM one. It seems to be well dialed in, tho, I'm gonna check it with the AP control. The light on it SERIOUSLY bleeds out the back of the housing which is opaque off-white, and that reflects off the cluster. after I get it set how I like, I may have to take some flat black pain to the back of the thing. The only thing so far i genuinely don't like about my gauge choice is that it has a seriously reflective dome shaped cover lens. Not so noticeable at night, sticks out like a sore thumb in the day. I wish it was flat. Now I need bulb covers to color match. Thing is bright. Still have to run a sensor for the tranny temp.
Pulled it back apart to get angles right and to put a little deadening mat on it to prevent later rattles. I'm a little concerned of the build quality of the gauge; there was a bit of particulate on the ring of the face, and as i went to scrape it with my thumbnail, i went clear down to the yellowish plastic underneath. Imma call ISSPro...