IMPORTANT: Information on Subaru Motor Oil -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From the May2007 TechTIPS bulletin: We have received several inquires into the engine oil requirements for 2005MY and later vehicles. The owners’ manual refers to ILSAC and API oil grades, but you may ask “what are they”? There are several organizations that develop, categorize, and license oil grades. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the American Society of Testing Materials (ASTM) are involved in the performance parameters of oil development, but we will limit this discussion to the ILSAC and API organizations. 1) ILSAC – International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee. This committee is made up of American and Foreign Automotive Manufacturers that develop the standards/requirements for oil grades. 2) API – American Petroleum Institute. This organization licenses the approved oil with an API certification mark (‘starburst’ mark) which identifies the oil as meeting the current requirements set forth by ILSAC. The API also has a symbol of the ‘donut’ which contains their own API category identification, oil viscosity, and energy conserving designation, if applicable. The API has their own set of categories to identify oil grades. Prior to ILSAC’s inception, the API was the only organization to develop oil grade standards. Since ILSAC’s existence in 1992, they have developed 4 different categories of oil grades, they are: GF-1 first appeared in 1996 GF-2 first appeared in 1997 GF-3 first appeared in 2001 GF-4 first appeared in 2004 The categories are backwards-compatible with all previous categories, however they are not cross-compatible. For instance, GF-4 can be used in-lieu of GF-3, but GF-3 cannot be used when GF-4 is required. API has a total of 11 gasoline engine categories in their history, starting with SA through SM (SI and SK have been omitted from the sequence). Since the new GF-1 category, the API has worked to standardize their categories with the ILSAC standards. Although the categories are not entirely similar, they are compatible up to the current category. API has a separate energy conserving designation “Energy Conserving” which must be present for compatibility with the ILSAC categories. Compatibility Chart GF-1 / SH (Energy Conserving) GF-2 / SJ (Energy Conserving) GF-3 / SL (Energy Conserving) GF-4 / SM (Energy Conserving) All 2005MY: Oil grade: ILSAC: GF-3 - or - API: SL (Energy Conserving) if not available SJ (Energy Conserving) may be used, SL is still the preferred grade. All 2006MY and later: Oil grade: ILSAC: GF-4 - or - API: SM (Energy Conserving) GF-3 cannot be used in any 2006MY or later Subaru vehicles. The GF-4 category oil has the lowest phosphorus content of any oil preceding it. Phosphorus has been found to reduce the effectiveness and longevity of the emission system. There are several other important changes that were implemented to increase fuel economy and overall longevity of the engine. Although most oils will contain both the GF-4 and SM (Energy Conserving) designation, it only needs to meet “GF-4” OR “SM”. Currently the FHI/SIA factory fill oil is 0W-20 mineral oil for the H4 SOHC(w/o VVL) and 5W-30 mineral oil for all others. The oil is designated as SM and GF-4 and is manufactured by Shin-Nihon Petroleum (FHI) and Shell (SIA). Clarifications: 1) Synthetic oil can be safely used provided the viscosity and oil grade classifications as noted in the Owners Manual are used. The oil change interval noted in the maintenance schedule must still be adhered to. 2) Severe Driving Conditions will require the oil change interval to be increased to 3,750 miles or 3.75 months. New for 2008: All turbocharged models are considered to be operated under severe driving conditions and require the oil interval of 3,750 miles or 3.75 months.
Summary: Use a GF4/SM oil if you have a 2006 or later Subaru change your oil at 3750 miles use synthetic if you want List of GF-4 (or SM) approved oils: Amsoil ASL High Performance 5w30 Amsoil XLF Extended Life 5w30 Castrol Syntec 5w30 Mobil1 5w30 Mobil1 Extended Performance 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 Redline Synthetic 5w30 Valvoline SynPower 5w30 What is NOT GF-4 (or SM) approved? -Royal Purple -Motul
Oh shit WJM is gonna be all over this when he finds out.lol I usually use the Mobile 1 5w30 extended or what ever the full synthetic is and change it every 2K latest running meth and fairly hard. But I too wondered about using something thicker for these HOT summer months (Maybe the 10W30 Mobile) or just stick with the 5W30?
My car says use 5w30 on the cap, so that's what I'm running. I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic with a Subaru filter (or super premium purolator if I'm out) every 3-4K. Or before and after a track day....
I use 10w30 in the summer, and my oil pressure looks fine. Considering the peak ambient temp of 5w30 is like 105F, I saw the need to up the weight. Honestly though, I dont think it even gets cold enough to hear to change it either...
rotella 15-40 is a great oil, very good additive package IIRC and seems to resist shearing well which is why it makes a good fleet oil. i used it in my old 1.8T and it ran super smooth and quiet...which can be tricky to achieve with those engines as they have really noisy heads and tend to sludge their oil. best thing to do...get your oil sampled by Blackstone Labs. I have two test kits and will be taking a look into my oil, and engine's, condition soon enough.
the weight of the oil 0w-30 and all that is a good guide line but a better way to see how thick the oil is is the true specs measured in Cst at a particular temp. I use only Syntec 0w-30 and the Cst is higher than most oil. My OCI is 5k and did several oil analysis and still recommended for longer OCI but just a piece of mind to change at 5k. Purolator Pure One or WIX filter. Thicker oil intuitively makes one believe it provides more protection. If its too thick it cant flow to the fine crevices that neeeds the most protection. Its more important how the oil thins out due to sheer than how thick the oil is. Just my 2c
5w30 and 10w30 have the SAME viscosity (thicness) when at OPERATING temp. So regardless of how hot our summer is, 5w and 10w makes ZERO different. its the LAST number that is the difference. 30 vs 30 is the same. Now, if you run Xw40, or Xw50, that makes a difference. Really, as long as you run a QUALITY oil and follow the owners manual for temp. ranges...you are 'ok' by SUBARU standards. However, the owners manual states that around 104*F ambient temp you should use 10w40. We are in the 90~100 range. On the edge, but we are still ok. Its not like its 110*F all day or something. We all know that most of our EJ engines use mobil 1 synthetic. That and every time I drain an engine with mobil 1 in it, regardless of 5w or 10w, it comes out like water. Same with the Penzoil Plat synthetic. The AMSOIL, Royal Purple are a TEENY bit thicker....Motul synthetic, and the other higher grade Dino oils (Castrol GTX, Valvoline) come out 'just right' and we have never seen problems from engines running those oils. We've seen TON of problems from Mobil 1, Penz. Plat, and other low grade Dino oils. However, if you want to follow the SUBARU guidlines...dont use the Motul/Royal Purple in the 06+ as its not SM rated...YET. However, if you really do want engine protection...run Motul. If you dont want Motul...run Catrol GTX.The Castrol GTX is the ONLY Dino oil I recommend. Its the only Dino oil that I didnt blow up an engine due to oil issues (break down due to heat).
Oh, btw... the 5w/10w/15w/20w numbers is the thickness (viscosity) when COLD...aka below 100*F. Thinner the better for better cold starts.
10-30w here, but mine seems to burn off more than i would like, so maybe something a bit thicker would be a good move?
well...50w is not exactly street friendly. I had some Castrol GTsomething 50w racing oil a long ass time ago. Worked great. Had like 150psi when cold.
"bruning oil" ?? consumed did it go pass the rings or did it go through the turbo thats the question you need to ask
Dunno for sure. There is oil in the intercooler, compression is good all around (perhaps a few psi less than i would like to see), no white smoke, no fouled plugs, i believe it is just too thin and going past the gaskets. I was going to change brands (castrol syn perhaps) and see if that helped. Using Mobile 1 10-30w atm.
Here's a link to mix up the pot a bit more. It talks about how oil viscosity is actually measures and what a 0W oil actually is. http://www.carbibles.com/viscosity.html The oil I use is 0w30 Amsoil Series 2000 Full Synthetic. It's a full synthetic esther based oil that is also GF-4 compliant.