Thanks to great and knowledgeble(sp) member here with airtools. We swapped out my OEM springs with Tein H techs to get rid of the 4 finger wheel gap and most important the dip and squat. I was more in the way JAFO The swap took about 2.5 hours but i was slowing him down with me still using hand tools instead of the airtools. The "are you ready" still ringing in my head. Tein H techs Hotchkis FSB Hotchkis Endlinks (sedan version for the wagon) by choice. So far i feel like im driving a go kart and liking it. And still compliant Will let it settle for a bit and then im goin in for alignment. What do you guys think of Front: Camber -1.5deg Toe=0 (25.4 tubular sways) Rear: Camber -1.0deg toe=0 (Cobb tubular sway med setting) thanks again
Max out the swaybar. It won't cause any snap oversteer without having an adjustble strut set at max damper. I would go even lower on the rear camber. Try -.75 to -.5. How are you getting camber adjustment back there, because OE is -1.3? You need camber bolts if you don't already have them, but they are inexpensive.
Yes I have a set of camber bolts from Ingalls for the rear Hesitate to use them because spome say they break Was wondering if i can get OEM front camber bolts to fit in the same location as the rear ? Unfortunately i forgot to measure them when it was out. Anyone know ? Yes I like the tail happy cars had a 240sx SR20det and a 300Z before
Yes, the bolt size is the same internally. Are you referring to the Ingalls breaking, or camber bolts in general? Just curious, I have a set of SPC's and they haven't broken in the ~6 months I have had them on. As far as maintaining alignment, I am not completely sure, but I am due for another alignment soon. I know the camber bolts are worse for maintaining alignment than camber plates.
Ive already got the 17s for months in the garage (since march). BBS RKs (when they had the sweet deal $125 ea) and a 92x fellow got it then sold his 92x before taking it out of the box. I got it for like $450 - 4 wheels Then Eagle F1s were on sale for $88 ea from Tire rack and on top of that $100 visa gift card for buying 4 All that waiting in the garage all dressed up no where to go till next week But I still drool over the Rota Torques in gunmetal
Give me a chance to breathe stage two last week and springs this week OK Ok OK i will get some pics later
That picture looks like you inverted the colors....pink floyd stylez or just having a flashback :keke: :eek3:
yes the negatives are clearer at times to show the arch and the wheel equal distance. And it also hides the dirty car :naughty:
Front -1.0 to -1.5 and rear -1.0 to -.5. As close to zero toe as possible on front and back. Everything else OE. That will save your tires, but still improve your handling slightly. If you want max performance, max the front negative with as little cross camber as possible and dial the rears to -.5 and there should be no cross camber.
I was thinking the same -1.0- -1.5 Front -1.0- -0.5 Rear 0 Toe front and rear What is cross camber (learning as i go)
Cross camber is the camber difference between the two sides on the front or the rear. Like your front left could be -1.6 while your front right is -1.4. The cross camber is .2. Its harder to get the fronts dialed in with zero cross camber when you are trying to max the negative camber, beause not all camber bolts are created equally and some have the ability to go further. The rears should be no problem to have zero cross camber, because you are not maxing out the camber bolt, but putting it somewhere near the middle where there is a lot of play. Be careful going to low on the negative camber in the rear for the wagon specifically since you do have more rear rotational mass than a sedan. This will allow the rear tires to break traction a lot faster when there is more momentum.
Make sure that you're sitting in the car when you go get your alignment done. Gran Turismo will allow you (they may require it), not sure about the others.