A friend of my Dads is doing a motor swap on a 2000RS and has a question I'm hoping you guys can answer. What is the hot oil pressure supposed to be at 180 degrees oil temp and 195 degrees water temp? He's getting 7 1/2-8 psi at idle (650-675 rpm) and 25psi at riding at 2000rpm. Its a stock 2.5RS motor with performance cams(delta cams w/1000grind) purchased from Colorado componants.... They are wrenching on it now.. hoping to get some help from you guys pretty quick.. Thx!
The motor the car had in it when the guy bought it was hosed.. So he ordered a replacement from that Colorado Components place. Apparently the 1st two he ordered were messed up as well. He said this one runs the best of the 3, but from what you guys are saying, this one is hosed to... Any idea what the oil pressure is supposed to be at idle?(650-675rpm)??
Alex, are you saying it should be above 80psi at idle? I'm not sure if he's talking cold start..I'm assuming the car is warmed up during testing... I know he has driven it its current config... Like I said.. around 8psi at idle...
Hi this is Sonicboom's friend The startup cold idle oil pressure is 70-75 psi. the idle pressure drops when the car is warmed up (water and oil) we have a oil pressure sender in the rear port and a oil temp sensor in the normal oil port under the alternator. TIA
The cold start pressure seems low, but reasonable? I am not 100% certain on this, but that just seems to be the case from what I have read over time. What oil temps are you seeing at idle (F)? What oil pressure do you see at idle (PSI)? What brand of sensors are you using? Are the sensors new or purchased used/second hand? What brand of gauges are you using?
Oil temps at idle run 170-180 with pressures at 7.5 to 8 pressure drops mayby 0.5 psi per 10 deg f. gage and sensors are Glow shift GS-E707 oil temp and GS-ET04 oil pressure
HOT oil, around 205F, should be idling at 15~18 psi. This with 15w40 Rotella on an EJ25D. I would guess that on an EJ251/253 with 5w30, the idle pressure should be NO LESS than 12psi. At 180F oil temp, my idle pressure is in the 30's and that engine should be in the high 20's. At 3000 RPM: 205F oil temp my engine is pushing 80psi. At 180F its 85psi. I know for a fact on the RS engine the pressure will be in the 60's at 205F and in the 70's at 180F. My EJ25D (and all other EJ25D, 1996~1999) has the 10mm factory pump. All EJ251/253 from the factory have the 9mm pump. My engine has 290,6xx miles on it, all original. The pressures you have stated indicate a SERIOUS problem. I am surprised that you are having such an issue with CCR, typically they are the best in the industry when it comes to SUBARU engines and transmissions. However, the last time I dealt with them was ~5 years ago. Things may have changed.
OK, talked again to my son (it's his car). oil in the car is convensional Valvoline 10W40. cold start up pressure is 80 psi at startup high idle and maybe drops to 75 psi when idle settles down to 675. 190-195 oil temps at 3000 rpm pressure is 40 psi. We have the pressure sensor in the rear galley port. Do you think we would see higher pressures at the front oil port? Thanks for the feedback.
The galley where you have it mounted currently should be the best. At least, that's what I have been told, read, installed mine.
Well, I think I F'd up big time and shipped the core back. CCR sayes the pressure 7-8 psi OK at idle, the service manual sayes 14 psi at 700 rpm at 170 deg f. (assuming that's water temp). I guess we'll drive it and if it blows up, see if CCR will stand behind it. The first motor we got from them had decent oil pressure but they put one .004 over piston in a .010 over bored block, never pulled it outa the Garrage. The second motor from them had 2 psi idle pressure under the conditions we have 7-8 psi now. we maybe put 10 miles on motor number 2. So this is the third motor from them since January. labor and using new coolant, coolant additive and oils on each swap is not cheap and come to allot of grief, and time spent doing each of the R and R's. I woulda thought the third time around they would put extra effort in doing the job right. CCR cut the price 15% for the grief, but we still have a motor that doesn't sound like it's been built right. There is more crap we went thru but I'm not gonna get into that right now. If anyone has any other thought's we're interested in hearing them.
As long as you have it in writing that they will stand behind it, go ahead and let it blow up while its during the warranty period and let them replace it, AGAIN.