Tonight is the first time i hooked up my AP to read boost I do not have a boost gauge. at idle -8.9 psi warmed up and car drives fine but finaly want to see my boost level and now i know im missing all this fun Im only reaching 9.0 +/- 0.2 PSI in both 3rd and 4th gear than road ended. What can be causing me to only have so low a boost. Any suggestions greatly appreciated I want to get my fun i feel cheated
Boost will be tapered at redline. What RPM are you seeing 9psi? If its redline thats probably right. If its at 4K then something is wrong. Check for leaks and damaged vac lines.
I have AP stg1 Im seeing 9psi at about 6000rpm i dont think i did anything to cause boost leak. I can check tomorrow. only thing i can think of is WG ctrl arm i turned it 1.5 turns clockwise (shortening the arm). I can do a reset with the AP and check and then maybe go back to stock (but i dont think that is it)
If anything shortening the WG arm would possibly increase your boost if you overdid it. Check the hoses going from the compressor side to the T to the wastegate actuator.
Yes I did and will again tomorrow But if there is a leak on those hoses - doesnt that mean that the WG actuator arm is not opening and Boost keeps goin up ?. I have a feeling i may need to take the IC off and see if any hoses are loose or this may be my prob too but i dont know where that picture is even until i guess to pull the IC off. The link for the above pic is http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=14106865#poststop
9psi at 6k doesn't seem that wrong... I'm not familiar with the AP stg 1 but what is the target boost? Edit: Target boost pressure is 14.7psi +/- 0.5psi depending on vehicle and conditions. Cobb also suggests using a HWY map if you are not hitting target boost.
I just replace the lines before and after the T for the boost solenoid. Did not replace the line to the boost solenoid. Im goin out for a quick run and I will BRB NOPE still at 9 psi at 5600-5800 rpm reached 8.8 at about 5k rpm target boost should be about 14.7psi for AP stage 1 Im quite sure i adjusted the WG correctly because i have to slightly tug the arm(hole) to meet the post. Could it be my boost solenoid is not triggered and the boost is opening the WG at 9 psi. is there a way to check the function of the boost solenoid or even if its getting signal.
Have you tried putting the wastegate arm back to the stock position? I'm more of the if it aint broke dont fix it type so I wouldnt play around with any of that stuff . . . Have you cleaned the MAF/air filter recently?
did you remove the ristrictor beed when replacing those lines? you will see only 9 psi if there no restrictor in that one hose.
I assume you mean the union plastic joint after the "T" connector on the way to the boost solenoid. Yes Its there (the stock one) Correct me if im wrong, the boost solenoid is venting back into the intake and will be triggered when boost is exceeding target (computer controlled). What if boost solenoid went "bad" and the wastegate is seeing boost all the time and i assume the spring is 9psi so at 9psi the wg is opening and the boost solenoid is not venting THIS AM I PLAN TO DO THIS 1. remove the turbo heatshield while its cool 2. check Wastegate and return it back to stock (1.5 turns counterclockwise on arm) 3. Test drive - Check if the boost psi is back to normal 14+ 4. If not, drive to somewhere when i can reset the conputer with my AP and then do a Vishnu reset. and see how it goes. 5. If yes, then do nothing and put the turbo Heatshield back and chalk a lesson learned. but my wastegate flutter is better now with the current setting but i ll take the WG flutter over the 9 psi bobby, i have not cleaned MAF i only replaced the filter a month ago
still make sure that the little brass beed with a hole in it is still inside the vaccum line conected to the turbo side not the waste gate side. If you replaced those lines this should be put back in the new lines. if you still have an issue i would take the car to subaru because something isn't right.
Can someone take a picture of the "little brass bead" I dont think i have seen the brass bead even on the original line. Will Subaru work on my SAABaru And Even if it has AP or do i revert back to stock first Still 9 psi turning WG back to stock and reset ECU and Vishnu reset I will check IC this PM after it cools down OHHHHHH MMMMMMYYYYY GOOOODDDDDD Im sorry to take so much of everyones time I found the pill and im soooooooo happy but in turn feeling so dumb. I replaced that line becasue i had some silicone hose and try to make give some blink to my engine and i did not see this "PILL" I am really sorry to take up space and time I will place the pill back in the system but in turn i also found a few articles thats interesting that may help others But that pill is such a poor design its almost round and if it turns in the tube you can get crazy boost. it should be longer and not able to turn I will measure and check what it is and if i have time ill make a brass tube that has the same dimensions (ID and OD)
Subaru will work on your car since it is a Subaru motor, just make sure that brass pill is put back in the line on the turbo side this should fix it if it doesn't Subaru can figure it out. Also are you sure you reflashed the correct map from the AP that is for your application?
this thread is definitely not a waste of space or time... it is quite informative and will help someone who has a similar problem in the future to resolve the issue quickly... thanks for adding to WRXatlanta's information database :bigthumb:
I agree with Milo we are all on this forum for just this type of thing to help each other Suby owners out, thats why we are all fellow suby brothers!
HAHA!!! No worries here buddy. I can't even tell you how many times I have seen this. The worst part is that I've seen shops "sponsor" a car, replace all the lines with blingy colored vacuum lines, and then the car is SLOW That "restrictor pill" boost control is VERY popular on OEM cars, and many WELL respected tuners stay with it. By "tuning" your restrictor size, desired boost and wastegate tables, this can result in VERY good wastegate control / boost response. Welcome to Suby ownership. I would have to agree with GTScoob, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Or really a "hippocratic oath" of "First, do no harm." ALL the time people try to make a 1 hp improvement, and end up making a 50hp (or $5,000) mistake... we're all glad you didn't do THAT! SS
I also have the poison pill from a VF39 setup and its even more bitter The STi's pill opening is only 0.9mm instead of 1.2mm Poison pill ID/OD/Turbo/notes/Material 1.2mm/4.4mm/TD04/1 groove around the pill/Brass 0.9mm/4.4mm/VF39/NO groove around the pill/Brass Scott, you should have posted last night so i have a few more hours of sleep Sorry Im some of your best customer - Engineers try to squeeze every drop out with min amt of $. a
See, you just learned a valuable lesson about ricing out your ride. I think some people posted on NASIOC about using welding nozzles to replace the restrictor pill. If you find a suitable one it would probably be less prone to rotating around like you're worried.
nope i meant the same thing as scott and the rest of them mentioned. im glad you got your problem narrowed down now. dont feel bad ive done this in the past also, thats how i knew.
15.2 psi @ 3rd 5200rpm w/ 1 full turn of WG adj arm cool temps outside Napping and then ill go for my bike ride later thanks all you guys I ll bake a cake the next time we have a meet