Rank these upgrades

So i'm trying to figure out in the long run what would be the most effective upgrades to my vehicle. I have a list here and would like to know in your opinions which are the most cost-effective/safe in a ranked order just put a # next to them.

Power:
Uppipe
Downpipe
Cat-Back
Exhaust Header/Manifold
Short Ram Intake
Tuning
Fuel Injectors/Pump
Larger Turbo
Clutch/Flywheel
Transmission Replacement
Larger TMIC
FMIC
Internal Engine Stuff/Port Polishing
Upgraded Cams

Handling:
Shocks
Springs
Coil-Overs
Strut Tower Bars
Sway Bars
Wheels and Tires

Braking:
Performance Brake Pads
Cross-Drilled or Slotted Rotors
High-Temperature Brake Fluid
Stainless Steel Brake Lines

 

Ok, I'm only going to do suspension stuff, because I can't say on the others with too much certainty (I added 1 for you as well)
1) Wheels and tires (ignore if you have an STi)
2) Sway Bars
3) Anti-Lift Kit or PSRS
4) Springs/Shocks or Coilovers
5) Rear Strut tower
6) Front Strut tower

That takes care of the basics. there's more that can be listed like lateral links and stuff but i'd do those after the above.

 

What do you have done so far, what are your goals(show or go?), how much money do you have 2 spend????

If I had to rank parts for my own taste, here's a short list...
Wheels/tires, springs/struts(coilovers if you have the $$$), Engine managment(I have Accessport(most have ECUTEK here), Full TBE + uppipe, sway bars, SS brakelines + performance pads.... That should keep your hands/wallet busy for a while....

 

I'm looking to make the car more powerful, but trying to balance that with keeping the life of the car, i.e. not blowing the transfer case.
I can make the car look nice on my own, it's the inside crap i don't know what to do about

 

I think he means like... do you have $1500 to spend on all of the above, but are you looking for more power, control, balances? A TBE will run 750-1000, leaving enough for ways and springs, but not wheels or coilovers. What balance are you looking to get in the end, and how do you want to start?

 

I'm not in the market right now. All i'm looking for is an idea of the road ahead so to speak. Just from your opinions and experiences, what was the most effective for your dollar.
Personally though, after i get a wing and wheels/tires, i'm going to go exhaust then an ECUTEK, then some suspension stuff and i'll stop there most likely. Some mods though, like the short ram intake, i have no idea about horsepower gains associated with it. I can be assured of the bigger exhaust/ECUTEK giving me another 40+ WHP though. And for 1000 bucks, or whatever i can get it for on NASIOC classifeds, not a bad deal.

 

Famous last words. :keke: A lot of the mods depend on how you combine them.... UP +DP is different than UP+axelback, etc. It sounds really obvious but I think a UP+DP+ tapered midpipe can can be as effective as a TBE if you're not planning on eventually running a bigger turbo. It'll definitely keep the noise down. I think the biggest bang for the buck have to be:
Engine:
UP/DP combo

Suspension:
Wheels and Sways

Tha'll do a TON for you by itself.

 

ask 5 people on this and you'll get 5 slightly different answers...

i think the ones most will agree on are these (to do first) i'm putting them in order, i'm going to paste a document on modifying the WRX (it's a write up by a tuner from cobb i think). an excellent resource for anyone. i don't agree with all of it, but it's a good baseline knowledge. sorry for the flood, but i couldn't post more than 10k char. and i cant upload the doc, it's too heavy...

first things to do:
-anti roll bars (sways) front and back (rolling is one of the worst aspects of the wrx in any area)
- full 3" TBE (you can only take air/fuel in as fast as you can get rid of it)
- EM (to actually utilize the TBE)
____________________________
that's my two cents... heres the writeup in the next several posts:

1.0 Intro


1.1 -Intro To Tuning

1.2 -Common Mistakes
1.21 -Raising Boost Prematurely
1.22 -Installing An Intake Prematurely
1.23 -Voiding Your Warranty
1.24 -Soft Break In

1.3 -The Order


2.0 Engine Performance


2.1 Engine Management
2.11 -Programmable
2.12 -Constant

2.2 Gauges
2.21 -A/F Ratio
2.22 -EGT
2.23 -Boost
2.24 -Others

2.3 Exhaust
2.31 -Downpipe
2.32 -Midpipe
2.33 -Uppipe
2.34 -Headers
2.35 -Muffler

2.4 Boost Controllers
2.41 -MBC
2.42 -EBC

2.5 Intake
2.51 -Short Ram
2.52 -Cold Air

2.6 Fuel System
2.61 -Injectors
2.62 -Plugs
2.63 -Pumps
2.64 -Regulators
2.65 -Rails

2.7 Intercoolers
2.71 -Front Mount
2.72 -Top Mount

2.8 Turbo Chargers
2.81 -IHI VF22
2.82 -IHI VF23
2.83 -IHI VF30
2.84 -IHI VF34

2.9 Misc.
2.91 -Blow Off Valve
2.92 -Turbo Timers

3.0 Transmission
3.1 STI 6 Speed

4.0 Suspension
4.1 Springs
4.2 Shocks
4.3 Strut Tower Braces
4.4 Sway Bars
4.5 Coilovers
4.6 Anti-Lift

 

|1.0| INTRO

This Guide is by no means completed or even started. I decided to post this guide and update throughout the next few days so that people can enjoy the information provided before I finish the entire paper.

|_____1.1 - INTRO TO TUNING

Tuning the WRX is like tuning any other car. It is nothing you should rush into. You should look at all your options and know exactly what you are doing. If you think tuning your WRX is something that will not require maintenance or time, you should look to a new hobby. I have been tuning for over 6 years and still find it takes a lot of my time. If you are married I would seriously talk to your spouse before you start working on your car, make sure that it is something that is ok with the both of. Many fights in my life and friends around me have happened within there marriage because of this. With that out of the way, if you are somebody that has the time, energy, and money to spend on this hobby I hope this guide helps you.

|_____1.2 - COMMON MISTAKES

Many people rush into tuning a car before understanding how the car works. I would recommend you purchase “Training WRX” by Nick Warne if you are serious about tuning your car

|_____1.21 - RAISING BOOST PREMATURELY

People rushing for speed raise boost right away to gain 20, 30, even 40 horsepower. This is extreme dangerous and could lead to serious damage to your turbo and even your engine. There is a Catalytic converter 3” away from your turbo in your Uppipe (See Exhaust for diagram) that could dislodge comb into your turbo charger, costing you upward of $2000.00 to replace. I can’t stress this enough, 40 hp for free sounds great, but that for that price if something should happen, do NOT raise your boost levels until that Uppipe is replaced.

|_____1.22 - INSTALLING AN INTAKE PREMATURELY

I fully understand the reasoning behind this mod in some WRX owner’s eyes. In most other cars a good Intake is worth 5 to 10 hp, however not so in the WRX. It does change the turbo spool sound to add a quite nice scream at full boost, however can potentially damage your engine, not to mention little to no power gain. The stock intake (minus the resonator, See Exhaust for diagram) is capable of 325 hp. Intakes simply lean your car out (More Air Less Fuel) to gain power and can seriously hurt your engine and turbo if installed before engine management and injector upgrades.

|_____1.23 - VOIDING YOUR WARRANTY

If you want to keep your car under warranty I would not recommend tuning at all. You can contract your dealer and find out what mods are acceptable, however even then risk the change of coverage. The best policy to assume is that if the car isn’t stock, it’s not covered. A simple Blow Off Valve can void your entire engine at some dealers.

|_____1.24 - SOFT BREAK IN

Oh no! He didn’t just say what I thought he said, did he? Yes I did. A highly debated decision even among professionals, should I baby my car at first or let it have it? The correct answer lies in the middle. So what’s the best way to break in an engine? Run it hard. Why? Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don’t seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to scrape the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall … How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI of combustion pressure?? It Can’t. So how do rings seal against tremendous combustion pressure? From the actual gas pressure itself! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine’s first miles of operation (WIDE OPEN), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible. So what’s the problem with easy break ins? … The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down to peaks of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. In fact, if the rings aren’t sealed properly within the first 50 miles they will never be. Most engine problems are caused by two things in later engine life, not allowing the engine to warm up completely before running it, and easy break ins, either case is easily avoided. Oh no, I’ve already broken the car softly what can I do? First off, chances are you gunned it for that test drive at least once or twice (which is great to do) but if not, don’t worry. Horsepower loose on a fully tuned WRX is around 4% due to improperly set rings. The only real way to correct it is to reinstall rings, but isn’t worth the hassle unless you are an active rally or track racer. Just keep an eye on those rings into the higher mileage.


|_____1.3 - THE ORDER

I lot of people have asked for my recommended order of upgrades and mods. For now I am just compiling a list for engine performance. For more details on any step please view the specific section for the upgrade.

A. Exhaust ([catless]Downpipe, Midpipe, Muffler, and [catless]Uppipe) +10 HP
B. Turbo Timer +Save Your Turbo HP
C. Gauges (EGT, AFR, and Boost at the minimum) +Save Your Engine HP
D. Engine Management (Timing, Fuel, Boost) +40-60 HP
E. Fuel System Upgrade (Injectors, Pump, Rail, Regulator, and Plugs) +10 HP
F. Intake +5 HP
G. Clutch and Flywheel +Needed To Handle Next 2 Upgrades
H. Intercooler +20-30 HP
I. Turbo +40-150 HP

That is just a quick overview of what order mods should be done (IMO) to safely increase power in your WRX. These mods should not be done hastily or without care, and are listed in simple order just for an overview.

 

|2.0| ENGINE PERFORMANCE

As most of you could guess, power comes from the engine. Getting reliable power out of the EJ20 isn’t hard at all as long as you follow proper safety guides and know what you are doing.

|_____2.1 - ENGINE MANAGEMENT

Engine management is divided into two parts. Programmable (Able to be changed by user) or Constant (ECU flashes which are done by tuning shops) Again this is a personal preference area, however if you heavily modding your WRX often, I would recommend getting a programmable Engine Management that includes your Fuel, Timing, and Boost.

|_____2.11 - PROGRAMMABLE

The best choice for WRX enthusiasts that will be modding their car regularly. I personally recommend the TurboXS (www.turboxs.com) UTEC. It controls fuel, timing, boost, as well as many other additional features; that can be changed on the fly via a PDA or laptop. I choose this simply because it is all-inclusive, you really won’t need any other fuel controllers or boost controllers. Some people like to have separate controllers for boost and fuel, however the problem is; the only way your going to control timing is through the ECU, which leads you back to some sort of UTEC or Flash. Why not skip the other management products and go right to timing, which includes everything?

|_____2.12 - CONSTANT

Constant engine management is mainly set up for timing and fuel. This is for somebody who doesn’t change mods much and wants to control boost using an outside device (GReedy Pro. B). This would involve getting your ECU flashed at a tuning shop, which no hopes of quickly changing it, or going back to stock to trouble shoot. I personally would recommend staying away from such an engine management unless you are done modding your car.

|_____2.2 - GAUGES

Gauges are a must. Would you bake something without seeing the temperature on the oven? I don’t think so; so while do something with you car without seeing what it is doing also?

|_____2.21 - A/F RATIO

An Air to Fuel Ratio gauge, a.k.a. AFR gauge, reads the ratio of air to fuel in your engine. You want your ratio of air to fuel to be lower (richer, more gas less air) under throttle than not. Anything under a ratio for 12.5:1 is considered rich by a stock WRX due to its limited reading without a wideband sensor. Most people simply quote the first number in the AFR reading, since the last number is always one, 12.5 AFR reading. I recommend installing a wideband sensor to find these readings below 12.5 if you are seriously modding your car. AFR can be used to lower the temperature in your exhaust gases also by adding more fuel to the mixture, as well as removing fuel to create more horsepower. As for which sensors and gauges to use, no one company can be considered the best and is up to personal preference.

|_____2.22 - EGT

EGT, or Exhaust Gas Temperature, is used to measure just that; how hot your exhaust gases are. This is used for tuning anything on your car. EGTs that are to hot can damage your car and cause knock, while to cool of EGTs (never seen on a modded car) can lower turbo performance. Most people consider 1600-1650 degrees Fahrenheit to be the threshold between ok and damaging. The problem with just installing a gauge is found when we look at the placement of the stock EGT probe, in the Uppipe. This is a bad place for any temperature readings due to its distance from the engine, and more importantly its distance from the infamous lean cylinder #3. Almost agreed upon by all WRX tuners, a probe should be placed in the manifold or headers at that cylinder.

|_____2.23 - BOOST

But I already have a stock boost gauge, why do I need to read this? Most importantly, because the stock boost gauge is often inaccurate at higher boost readings. So you mean I have to get a new boost gauge? Yes. I often recommend getting the Blitz Dual Turbo Timer (DTT) to kill two birds with one stone, however any other gauge company (Autometer and GReedy most notably) create very accurate gauges to be used with tuning. The easiest way to tap into the vacuum lines is right before the blow off valve (and is where the stock boost gauge is tied in at also), however, if you are installing a new gauge and had the stock gauge installed already, simply tap into that line under the steering column.

|_____2.24 - OTHERS

What other gauges are there? TONS! If you are an avid fan of gauges and can never be to careful you can look into other gauges as well as the ones I recommend to begin with. They include but are not limited to: Coolant Temperature, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temperature, Oil Pressure, and many more.

|_____2.3 - EXHAUST

The bread and butter of your WRX mods, seconded only to engine management in total HP gains due to an upgrade. Note that the Exhaust doesn’t give much HP, but it allows for a larger turbo and higher-grade gas.



|_____2.31 - DOWNPIPE

The second most poorly designed piece of equipment in your car, lead only by your Uppipe, which Subaru thought it would be a great idea to place a catalytic converter 2 ½” from your turbo. The Downpipe not only has a cat in it, it also blocks half the wastegate with a plate. That’s right, a plate, which leads to massive air flow turbulence, blocks half of your turbo outlet. I would recommend switching this with any 4” Downpipe. Some people like the separated wastegate while some argue the open pipe leads to better airflow. I for one, can’t notice a difference between the two, and would tend to say either will work fine as long as the cat is removed.

|_____2.32 - MIDPIPE

The stock Midpipe isn’t a horrible design, however you could benefit from a 3” pipe here. I for one would recommend you remove cat in this section as well if your car is for racing only. Please note it is illegal to run a car without cats for on-road use. (My lawyer made me). Keeping this cat would not hurt your performance greatly, but wouldn’t allow you to easily run higher-grade gasoline. You will also find your rear O2 sensor located here, which will be useless if you upgrade your cat, and you would need to place a resistor in the line to block from bad readings.

|_____2.33 - UPPIPE

THE MOST POORLY DESIGNED PIECE OF EQUIPMENT ON YOUR CAR, Subaru thought it would great to place a cat 2 ½” from your turbo charger, ON THE INTAKE SIDE! Replace this before you even think about raising your boost. I would recommend any Uppipe without a cat, which ID equals the same as the turbo inlet. Any larger and you disrupt the airflow and loose power instead of gain from the larger pipe. This pipe also has an EGT probe in it, which is a very bad placement. I would recommend mounting a bung right outside Cylinder #3 on the headers.

|_____2.34 - HEADERS

The stock headers perform fine under normal tuning, however if you are going to upgrade to a larger turbo you will find that 4 to 1 headers will greatly increase your spool time and peak boost. Headers vary a lot and should be compared before purchase. I would also recommend buying a set that includes your Uppipe (so you know they will fit fine) if you have the available funds to do so. The headers hold your front O2 sensor and should also hold your EGT probe outside Cylinder #3.

|_____2.35 - MUFFLER

This is purely up to preference, and doesn’t show any largely noted HP increase. Some people argue that 2 ½” is fine, while others say you should continue with 3”. I haven’t felt a real HP difference in anything setup, and would recommend going with the one you enjoy the sound of the most.

|_____2.4 - BOOST CONTROLLERS

Boost controllers only apply to people who are not running boost through their engine management.

|_____2.41 - MBC

The MBC or Manual Boost Controller controls boost by placing a restriction between the line that runs from the wastegate actuator to the turbo. This is adjusted by turning a bolt inside the valve in the engine bay and cannot be set to change boost throughout gear and rpm ranges. I would not recommend this to any persons wanting to keep boost above 15 lbs. 15lbs is dangerous at redline without heavy modding and shouldn’t be done by a novice.

|_____2.42 - EBC

The EBC or Electronic Boost Controller controls boost by either the boost control solenoid already found in your car, such as engine management, or by electronically adjusting the restriction on the line between the wastegate actuator and the turbo. Some are a simple one setting controller, which I would not recommend for running over 15lbs. While others, such as engine management, can change with RPM and throttle settings.

|_____2.5 - INTAKE

As previously noted, any novice should not upgrade this until your Engine management and fuel system are able to handle it.

 

|_____2.51 - SHORT RAM

This intake is simply attached off your turbo inlet in your engine bay. A short piece of pipe is then connected to a cone filter where the old intake filter used to be. This intake allows for maximum airflow, but delivers hotter air. This intake is also not as likely to dangerously lean your car out without you knowing it. A Short Ram is also required for anybody running a FMIC, as the side wells will be consumed by the piping.

|_____2.52 - COLD AIR

This intake is attached off your turbo inlet in your engine bay and run down into your tire well. This is done to bring the cold air from outside the engine bay into your intake, thus increasing density charge. It has been noted however, that this intake is known for leaning your car out and does not provide the results, as one would expect, to your boost and overall horsepower rating.

|_____2.6 - FUEL SYSTEM

The stock fuel system in your WRX is good till 325 HP or so. After that you will need to upgrade your injectors, rail, and pump at the very minimum.


|_____2.61 - INJECTORS

The injectors on your WRX should be the first things you upgrade. Anything over 500cc will be fine, unless you are planning on running an extremely large turbo charger and nitrous, at which point I would install 800cc injectors. New injectors will work ok with the stock fuel pump, however I would also recommend upgrading that at the same time.

|_____2.62 - PLUGS

Upgrading your spark plugs is a very easy way to lower engine temperatures. Simply install a plug with a higher heat rating (7 recommended). I would also recommend letting a Mechanic install your plugs unless you have a complete tool set and a good two or three hours the first time you do them.

|_____2.63 - PUMP

Your stock fuel pump is only good for so much fuel delivery and should be upgraded to a 255ltr fuel pump if you plan on upgrading your turbo at all. I would also consider installing a new regulator to maintain good pressure with the new pump.

|_____2.64 - REGULATOR

Although not required, I would recommend install a new fuel pressure regulator if you install a new fuel pump. This could save you many problems down the road.

|_____2.65 - RAILS

Fuel Rails should be upgraded if you raise boost at all if you want to see your engine into the 100,000-mile mark. Cylinder #3 runs extremely lean, and hotter than the rest. Even if no detonation is occurring it is still putting undue wear on this cylinder.

|_____2.7 - INTERCOOLERS

If you are planning on upgrading your turbo, you must upgrade your intercooler. There are two ways to do this, one being Top Mount, the other, Front Mount. Both have advantages and disadvantages.

|_____2.71 - FRONT MOUNT

A front mount intercooler, or FMIC, has the best density charge and cooling capacity, however due to its length away from the turbo charger, will create more turbo lag (spooling time for the turbo) than a Top Mount. A FMIC is however required to achieve higher top-end boost as well as for the larger turbo chargers such as the IHI VF22. I would also recommend a FMIC for the IHI VF23, however it is not required. If you want more boost and power, yet lower end lag, go with the FMIC, if you want instant power, yet not as strong, please read the Top Mount Intercooler listed below.

|_____2.72 - TOP MOUNT

A top mount intercooler, or TMIC, has the least amount of turbo lag and is best used with smaller turbo chargers to create large amounts of low-end power. However, not as powerful as the FMIC at the top-end, it stands its ground being able to push upwards of 400 HP, while allowing full turbo spool in most turbo at or below 3000 RPM. I would recommend a TMIC with the IHI VF30 or VF34.

|_____2.8 - TURBO CHARGERS

This is why you have your car right? It’s turbo charged, it sounds nice, it gets stares as your BOV, or Blow Off Valve, echoes across the parking lot. Sure it is, you don’t need to deny it. If your cars parts were label this would have the GO BABY GO sticker on it. Turbo charges are very powerful, yet fragile as well. You should also think long and hard on how you want your car to perform before you purchase a new turbo charger, as well as what kind of Intercooler you have installed. Some turbos are great for high-end boost yet do not achieve max boost until much later than the smaller turbos. Please note, I only cover IHI turbo chargers in this section for I have not been able to work hands on with any other major brands.

|_____2.81 - IHI VF22

This is a popular replacement turbo for WRX’s with heavy modifications, such as exhaust and front mount intercooler, kits, 4 to 1 headers, etc. (designed for greater blow) as this turbo will start to come on boost at 3300 rpm, however is capable of running up to 25 psi @7000 rpm for over 500HP.

|_____2.82 - IHI VF23

This is the other popular replacement turbo for WRX’s heavy modifications, such as exhaust and front mount intercooler, kits, 4 to 1 header, etc. yet can still be run with a TMIC and has considerably less turbo lag than the VF22 as this turbo will start to come on boost at 3000 rpm, and by 3200 rpm is capable of 20 psi @7000 rpm for over 450HP.

|_____2.83 - IHI VF30

The VF30 has a bigger compressor than the VF23 at 47mm. It incorporates a 9 blade compressor wheel. The core is a divided thrust bearing and has a P18 exhaust housing. This is the standard turbo on the New Age Sti and has better spool times than the VF23 as this turbo will start to come on boost at 2900, and by 3300 rpm is capable of 19 psi @7000 for around 400HP.

|_____2.84 - IHI VF34

The VF34 is similar to the VF30 but has improved spool up due to roller bearing design as this turbo will start to come on boost at 2700, and by 3000 rpm is capable of 18.5 psi @7000 for around 390HP.

|_____2.9 - MISC

Two other items that were mentioned but not covered in detail I should address.

|_____2.91 - BLOW OFF VALVE

I’ve heard both sides of the story to this component. Stock is fine vs. Upgrade to an External venting. In either case, they are incorrect; the stock BOV is only good till 19 to 20 psi (in some cases even less) and an external venting BOV has no better performance than a recirculatative. I do recommend upgrading the BOV if you plan on running an aftermarket turbo charger, or if you wish to simply hear it vent pressure. Nothing says you have a turbo changer like a loud BOV.

|_____2.92 - TURBO TIMER

As discussed in the earlier parts of this document, a turbo timer is a MUST! As to which turbo timer, that is up to personal preference on many levels. I would make sure that it reads your boost as to set the ignition disconnect delay according the turbo use as well as purchase a wiring harness made to fit your WRX.

 

|3.0| TRANSMISSION

The gears that transmit power from an automobile engine via the driveshaft to the live axle. That’s great an all, but the real question is, “Is stock ok?” For most people that are lightly modding their WRX the stock transmission is great. I wouldn’t recommend running several drag runs on the stock, or launch at 6,000 RPM; but for everyday use up to 400HP+ the stock transmission should be fine without abuse. I would further discuss upgrades in the section, however choices are very limited without extreme modification.

|_____3.1 - STI 6 SPEED

The most common is to replace with the STI 6 speed transmission which can installed with minimal hassle, but rather large expense ($5500 on average, total). This transmission can handle anything you throw at it though (save again, redline drops) and corrects the weak second gear.


|4.0| SUSPENSION

Whether you are a rally fan, or a road racer, suspension is a must. Hard, soft, lower, high, it’s up to you. I will go over the basic parts involved in making your WRX handle like a dream.

|_____4.1 -SPRINGS

1” or 4” ground clearance is up to you. Springs can be used to adjust the ride height of your WRX as well as the stiffness. This is a must upgrade from stock either way. If you are lowering I would recommend purchasing a spring that lowers the front considerably more than the rear due to the finder gap. However, upgrading springs should not be done without upgrading shocks, as the new springs will put more work on the already weak stock shocks.

|_____4.2 - SHOCKS

Shocks improve ride quality as well as control. This is what makes your car stiff to the road. Good racing shocks should be installed for rally, track, and drag. All three will notice the launch and racing difference with upgraded shocks. For serious rally and track racers I would recommend purchasing adjustable shocks for customizable uses.

|_____4.3 - STRUT TOWER BRACES

Drag Racers bug out! This is for you rally and track fans. Hate that body roll, which your car would turn stiffer, then this is your answer. Relatively cheap compared to most suspension upgrades this by far adds the most support to turning and body roll. A must have!

|_____4.4 - SWAY BARS

Didn’t I tell you drag fans to get lost? Want proper chassis balance and improved steering response? This is for you. Just like the tower braces above, these greatly improve the rigidness of your WRX. With all sway bar installation I recommend new end links as well, a simple but helpful addition when running performance sway bars.

|_____4.5 - COILOVERS

Rally Fans ONLY please. When you need the ultimate suspension, this is for you. Extremely expensive for most casual tuners; however invaluable to racers. Most coilovers require a purchase of additional upper strut mounts, but few can be found direct bolt on. A must have for various track conditions.

_____4.6 - ANTI-LIFT

Ok Drag fans, you’re safe again. An often-overlooked part of suspension upgrades (which could almost be added to performance upgrades) is an Anti-Lift kit or Steering Response Kit. I swear by these for launch control and acceleration stability. I’ve never seen somebody install one and wish they hadn’t. Even cornering, this removes a large amount of body movement.

 

thanks for the info monk... theres a couple things on here i would like to read when i have some time

 

for suspension, check out whitline.com.au and look up "Rex on Rails" it's a four part test that whiteline did of separate features and their relative effects.

 

Good info overall, but turbo timers aren't really a 'must' on a WRX due to the design of the cooling system.

 

Thx for the info monk. So heres the question of the hour, how do i approach my dealership and ask them what upgrades, specifically the catless uppipe and ECU management will void my warranty. I bought from Royal.

 

Call Scott Siegal at SOG (or PM him here, siegalracing). He's really knowledgeable and helpful, just an all around great guy. He does the Ecutek tuning at SoG, so he's familiar with engine management.

 

Nice Info

 

u can go to any subaru dealership for warranty related issues... not necessarily to the one where u bought the car

 

nick: not sure if u've seen this but check it out
http://www.wrxatlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2543#post28578

 

With a WRX doing just a muffler (axle-back) is a great mod.

Here's the deal, it will be good to get this info on here; without a dyno, timing 60-80 in 3rd gear is a good translation to whp.

Get on a flat piece of highway, make sure nobody is behind you. Get into 3rd gear, A/C off at 45mph.

Floor it. Click the watch at 60, then again at 80.

Stock = 9.6 to 9.8 seconds.

Axle-back, even just a STi take-off or the nice quiet Prodrive = low 6 seconds. yes that's 30% from JUST a muffler. This only makes such a gain because the stock one is so bad. This is not typical and does not hold true with the STi's.

TBE or just DP and muffler (stock mid-pipe) - catted or catless doesn't matter on the stock turbo. They will go mid to low 5's.

UP, Silicone y-pipe, TBE, etc (all the little stuff, no headers, no EM) should go high 4's.

With EM we're mid 3's.

Of course this depends on temperature outside, having good gas, having no more than 2 people in the car etc.

Basically a good mod path,assuming you are not changing turbos, is:

muffler
DP
UP (of course you can save HOURS by doing the DP and UP at the same time)
Y-pipe, or STi TMIC
EM

The intakes are worth a couple more whp, I don't have conclusive evidence that headers are worth ANYTHING. On the stock turbo *some* headers will LOSE you power...

For Handling the WRX's RE92s are terrible, so the best money is spent on tires. Once you have good tires, sway bars are the next best improvement, but of course they don't do anything to improve the looks like springs...

More later...

SS

 

oh no, that was written by a dude a cobb actually... i just don't remember who exactly... i'm an info-packrat of sorts. if you need a writeup on something wrx, i've probably got it on my keychain

 

Thanks for the great info Scott. After the swap, i have some money laying around i was saving up for a wing, so thanks alot for that! Will probably invest in a muffler and later some sway bars and springs.
Here's another question to consider:

From my experience though the fluid dynamics i took in physics, the flow rate of a fluid/gas is going to be dependent on the smallest diameter pipe in the system. So, what i'm trying to figure out is how increasing the size of the muffler will help if your DP is still the same size. It doesn't remove more Amount of gas per second, because the flow rate will be constant; the pressure and velocity will change in the larger section of pipe. So, the explanation comes down to eliminating resistance and turbulance, i.e. a straight pipe will flow gas at a higher velocity, a pipe with mesh in it or a plate in it will restrict flow. Will the new muffler remove whatever muffles the sound, thus increasing the flow rate out of the turbo.

So what i'm thinking is that the difference between a 2.5" and 3" full turbo back with equivalent shape and resistances will be negligable because the flow rate out of the turbo will be the same, as the smallest pipe is the , oh what is it, the header i guess, whatever connects to the uppipe.

 

Actually the answer is FAR more simple. The stock WRX is chambered, meaning that the flow has to totally change direction...

The flow rate also has to do with reynolds number, pipe smoothness, bends, wetted area, pipe diameter and length...

Flow rate is only limited by the smallest section when you are talking absolute/ultimate flow limits, as in the speed of sound. You can't go super-sonic through a tube, that's the ultimate velocity limit. What matters to power is the restriction at a GIVEN flow rate. The engine is only breathing out at a certain flow rate. The less restriction on that the easier it can breathe out...

SS

 

Scott,

Regarding the suggested mod path: How do you feel about doing DP/UP before EM on an 04/05, with the CL/OL delay issues in mind? It's the path I took, but looking back I wonder if I wouldn't have been better off taking care of EM first.

 

i asked amol to get a reflash first for that same reason... all he has is a catback and ECUTEK now

 

Alex: I don't think Subaru had much of a choice in the matter. The "enrichment delay" is EPA mandated because the WRX isn't considered a "higher performance vehicle" like the STi in the rules.

From what I gather, the reason the 02/03 models did not suffer from this is that they were at the time the most high performance scooby; this of course changed with the introduction of the STi as a 2004 model. Now the STi is ranked as "higher performance vehicle" and the WRX as "most vehicles" which mandates the ~2 second enrichment delay.

All that said, it looks like in actuality we're dealing with closer to a 3+ second delay (depending on situation).

 

Doing UP/DP without EM is fine. There are hundreds of cars running around like that. Of course it gets better with EM

SS