so, as many of you know, I have been waiting quite a while to get these bad boys on my car. I knew from test driving Jeff's car, I didnt want to go with a 500/400 spring rate because that is just too stiff for me to drive everyday (even though those tarmac 2s were scary fast :naughty, and I knew I wanted to go stiffer than the rce yellows on d specs (rated at 280? I believe, and i think the stiffest springs for the d specs) after test driving a few cars on that set up. so I was looking at a set of coilovers that is somewhere in between 300-400, with an ability to upgrade to stiffer springs later if i decided it was too soft. my budget was about $1000 and what really sold me is that the STs are owned by KW. I did think about the BCs but longevity issues is what scared me off. Never drove on the BCs but on a shot gun ride it seems to be better than what everyone says about them. I never had a set of coilovers so I cant say anything about the quality, but they are beautiful I`m not exactly sure on the distance of the center of the wheel to the fender is, but I think I could raise the fronts a tad bit. flame me all you want for the low ride height, but I quite like the way it sits now. I do plan on getting the RCA and ALK. unfortunately my 17" pokes a bit too much (35 offset) so I switched to my stockers until i get my rear fenders rolled. to have this info relevant for a large targeted group, I will do the review based on the 17" package as it seems to be the popular set up for many subaru's. My review will be a comparison of Prodrive blue springs on D specs, vs RCE yellows on d specs, vs Tarmac 2, vs the ST coilovers. I think it is irrelevant to give someone a description of how a set of coilover feels.. one may find something soft, whereas others find the same set up really stiff. I will also let you know that none of these tests were done on a track; in fact, that would irrelevant as well; I drive my car on the streets 99% of the time, being pushed to maybe 60% of its capabilities, if that, on public roads, so all of the impressions are based on spirited test drives. driving straight on relatively smooth road: in comparison with d specs and prodrive springs, the STs bounce a bit more, particularly in the rear. nothing bone jarring, but definitely feel the up and down oscillation more... it gets worse on the oem 16" wheels with the 205/55/16 tire, perhaps due to the tall side profile. d specs on rce yellow is a more neutral ride, with minimal up and down (bobble-head effect), tarmac 2s being the worst at this (bone jarring, and every minute surface differences are picked up, even at parking lot speeds). I have two educated guesses on the oscillation being worse on the STs compared to the d specs: 1. it may be my 190k miles old tophats that are too soft, or 2. the soft, progressive rear springs that is actually causing the small oscillation on the STs.. if it is the tophats, perhaps the prodrives were too soft to amplify this issue. if that small oscillation can be taken away, ST would rate better than the prodrives. from 1-4, rce yellow -> prodrives -> ST -> Tarmac 2 driving straight on roads with dips and pot holes: this is where you can tell the external reservoir and the more advanced bound and rebound control makes the difference on the expensive tarmac 2s! it soaks up big dips and pot holes like it does not exist! Sadly, I would have to say that the STs arent THAT much better than the d specs with the yellows in terms of soaking up dips and pot holes... perhaps it's my ride height, but I wouldnt say it's night and day between the d specs with yellows vs the STs on rough roads. STs do recover quicker after the impact, meaning, that the up and down motion has been alleviated. this 'recovering' time is quicker than that of the dpecs + yellows, but the impact feels harsh at a similar level. Again, the tarmac 2s are at a different level in this category. prodrives on d specs however, is definitely the worst, because it does not have enough spring rate for its low drop (especially the front), and moves up and down very violently, even after the car has gone through the pot hole or a dip; it does not feel like the car is in control... tarmac 2 -> ST -> yellows -> prodrives so which one would i take on a long road trip? yellows -> STs -> prodrives -> tarmac 2s cornering characteristics: so imagine that you are approaching a corner; you get on the brakes to slow the car down and then you turn the car into a corner and get on the gas. for me, a car confident in the corners, after getting off the brakes, has sufficient traction and allows you to get on the gas nice and early... after all, you`re braking because you are unsure if you have enough traction to clear the corner right? the tarmac 2, after getting off the brakes, you can feel almost immediately that the traction has returned to all four wheels to go around the corner. the steering input is very precise and the suspension movement is very linear, and the car is very agile. on the STs, the entry of the corner is a bit trickier because you have to second guess yourself if the car is ready to make the turn; initial turn in after braking feels a bit floaty, but once you get the car in a right posture and the suspension settles, it holds its grip and the car can go around the bend very quickly. the yellows and the prodrives on d specs are vague in the entry of the corner, yellows being a tad bit better on both the entry and the exit of the corner. prodrive's raked stance can provoke oversteer (usually under braking) at times and is nerve wrecking, but proves to be quite fun on auto-x type of sessions. it would be interesting to see how the STs will behave with stiffer springs. Tarmac 2-> ST -> yellows -> prodrives verdict: if you want to track race the car and it is not your DD, Tarmac 2s. period. if you want the compromise of both comfort and performance: STs if you are on a budget and would like the blend of comfort and performance: d specs and the RCE black or yellow if you just want to lower the car for appearance: prodrives (dont bother with the d specs.. you will be on the softest setting anyways) If i were to do it again with a higher budget, I would go for the KW variant 3s with 400/300 linear springs as the dampers just seem to be on a different planet of performance. I know for sure i want to go a bit stiffer than 340 front and progressive rear, but figuring that out is part of the fun right?