MOD: For MY02-04 WRX's or RS's Author: Mike Centola (screaminfast@rspeed.org) Last Updated: 3/16/2004 First, I'd like to thank LJAviation and Tobey from NASIOC for helping me get everything together! Also the pizza box in the circuit pictures was contributed to RoS's own Med Jai. This HOWTO will show you, step-by-step how to get a JDM STi Version 8 Instrument Cluster into your MY02-03 WRX. I got my cluster from StevieD on NASIOC, and I believe this works with the USDM ones as well if you do not like the speedo and odo reading in kilometers. I hope the instructions are helpful, and if you have any questions, feel free to email me at screaminfast@rspeed.org. WARNING: As all modifications to your car, this has to be done at your own RISK. I cannot accept responsibility for any damage to your car. OK, lets start! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal. First you want to remove the trim piece from around the Instrument cluster. This may be pretty tricky with the steering wheel in the way, but a nice stubby screwdriver will help. There are two screws at the top of the trim piece, and then it just pops out. 2) Once you have the trim piece out, you will have the cluster staring you in the face. Remove the 3 screws holding the cluster to the frame in there. They are your standard black screws. 3) To remove the stock cluster, you can angle it right, and unplug each connector. I found it easiest starting at the right-most connector and working towards the left. Once you have it disconnected, you can set that aside. 4) With the cluster out, you can get a better look at the connectors. We will be working only with the "B" connector, which is the middle one. It is also the largest of the three. You can take a razorblade or small knife and cut the two pieces of electrical tape off of the harness so that it will be easier to work with. If you look very closely on the backside of the connector, each pin is labeled with its corresponding number. 5) Here's where we really get into it. If you are not concerned with getting the OAT (Outside Air Temperature) gauge working, the you can just cut the wire on pin B28, and tape both ends. Skip down to Step 16, and you are pretty much ready to go. 6) If you would like to get the OAT gauge working, then continue to read on. In order for the OAT circuit to function, we must build a voltage regulator circuit so that we can alter some of the voltages seen by the cluster. The parts needed for the OAT circuit are: 5V Regulator (RadioShack P/N: 7805 or 276-1770), a 2.2k Ohm resistor, the OAT Sensor (Subaru P/N: 73730FE010), a spare cluster pin, which can be taken from a subaru cluster, or a honda cluster at a junkyard, some standard wiring, and blade connectors. Additionally, you should have decent soldering and wire crimping skills. Let's build our circuit! 7) The first thing to do would be to solder the output and the ground leads to the voltage regulator. 8) Next, the 2.2k Ohm resistor has to also be soldered to where the output lead meets the voltage regulator. 9) Then, solder a wire on to the other end of the 2.2k Ohm resistor. Also, now you can solder a wire on to the last lead, the input lead.
10) Now you have pretty much completed the circuit. You'll just want to clean everything up a little. I added heat shrink tubing to each of the different leads, then I also heat shrinked the resistor/lead together as seen below. pic 2 11) After finishing this, at the other ends of the wires, you can put blade connectors to make everything easier when you go to put the circuit into the car. I added that extra ground wire, so that I can just ground it somewhere behind the dash. I also spun the wires so that it would look even neater. 12) Back inside the car, the first wire we will work with the the one off of the B8 pin. It is BLACK with a BLUE tracer. Cut this wire, tape the end coming from the dash, and put a blade terminal on the one going into the "B" connector. You will want to run a wire from the front of your car up to this area behind the cluster. Connect one end to the OAT sensor that you bought, and put a blade terminal on the end of the wire behind the cluster. Plug this into the terminal you put on the wire coming off the B8 pin. 13) Next find the B11 Wire. It is BLACK with a PINK tracer. Cut this wire, and again, tape off the one that comes from behind the dash. As seen in our schematic, this needs to connect to both the OAT sensor, and the circuit we made. First, run another wire from you OAT sensor location to the area behind the cluster. Twist this with the B11 wire on the cluster side, and crimp on a blade connector as shown in the picture below. This will connect to the wire with the resistor in our circuit. 14) Now get that pin you got from another subaru cluster harness or a honda harness. Hopefully it has a wire already attached to it, as mine did. If not, you will have to solder, very carefully, a wire to the pin. Push it into the B12 spot which should be empty on your cluster. Crimp a blade connector on the other end of the wire. This will attach to the other output wire off our circuit. 15) Lastly, find the B28 wire, and cut it. It is YELLOW with a GREEN tracer. Put a blade connector on the wire coming from inside the dash. This will connect to the input lead on the circuit we made before. Take the B28 wire that came from the cluster side of the harness and put a blade connector on it. This will connect to the grounded wire in our circuit. 16) Put the circuit into the dash and connect each of the connector as per the schmatic and the howto. Attach the grounding wire on the circuit to a good ground in the dash. Put the new STi cluster into the dash and connect all of the connectors. Connect your negative battery terminal, and give it a test. If everything seems to work you're in good shape! Go for a drive and see if the Outside Air Temperature gauge works! 17) You're done! Sit back and have a beer. *sourced from screaminfast