Maybe someone will have some insight on this scenario. I have a 2004 Forester XT, 5MT. I bought it bone stock with 26k miles (even what was left of the original tires). I added a Cobb AP 2.0. K & N air filter. Removed the snorkus. Installed a factory catless UP. Helix 3" catted DP. WBR performance 3" mid pipe. I had a WBR 3" back box for about 50k miles on it, but the drone got to me and I put the factory one back on. She’s been good to me, but the rad top tank cracked around 100k miles, so I put in a new one and replaced the timing belt at the same time. The associated pullies looked great, no seepage, no play so I left them. I'm now up to 123k miles. I've been running the Cobb stage 2 map since I put the 3" parts on. It has always run well and I run partial synthetic engine oil since I don’t track, race, or otherwise give the car a hard time. Today while driving down Hwy 78 toward Stone Mountain, just cruising along in 5th gear around 50MPH it lost power. I noted when I tried pressing the accelerator down further, I could hear the engine trying to take in more air, but the turbo was not reacting (not building boost). The check engine light had come on and as soon as I pressed the clutch in, the RPM's dropped to nothing. I tried letting the clutch out again for a rolling restart, but the engine was obviously not responding. I coasted into a parking lot and tried to start the engine via starter. The starter struggled to turn the engine over and I hear what sounded like metal on meal sound. It was low on oil by about 1.5 quarts. It was thought to be completely accurate since the car was on an incline. I put in 2 quarts and once on flat ground those two quarts put it over the full mark. When trying to restart, I believe the metal on metal sound is in the left bank, cylinder closest to the rad. It is a higher pitched sound, possibly the piston hitting something. My only other suggestion would be the crank and/or rod slapping something. There was no engine oil light, my temp gauge was in the normal area, and no codes are present. I was able to remove the coolant cap in less than 5 minutes and both the tank and the reservoir were full as appropriate. I had it towed to a shop I trust since I didn’t want to pay to tow it twice (my place then a shop). Anyone have any ideas? I'm leaning toward a valve/piston interference. I know what an engine sounds like when it is oil starved and the associated temp climb, so I dont think it is rotating group related.
Shop confirmed today the timing belt tensioner bolt broke off in the block. Of all the things. I did the work myself and followed the specs in the manual, plus used a brand new torque wrench. Now, I'm on to finding a solution. Anyone with any suggestions. I'm planning on staying similar to my current set-up for driveablity.
Havent pulled the motor yet. Just got the call on the issue a little while ago. I'm pretty sure #1 is toast in a bad way due to the noise, but I wont know about the others until the heads are off. I'm assuming the worst at this point. :wtc:
Ouch. Sorry to hear dude. Contact slowwrx. He has some of the best motors locally ready to roll for ya iirc. All from mild to wild.
Sounds that way. Plus, if I'm doing a new long block, I'm putting on a new turbo, if I do that, I'll go with the VF39, so that means at least the STI intercooler. This gets expensive fast. Especially, for a car that I dont plan on keeping for more than 2 more years. (Its paid for and I was saving for my next ride).
Thanks for the input. I sent slowwrx an email and gave Allpro a call. Now I'm waiting to see what they say and just how big the price tag will get. . . hnoes: