A stripped thread is holding me back from getting my bugeye on the road. Problem is, I've never fixed a stripped thread before. No where around here has a metric tap-dye kit, and I don't feel comfortable drilling to put a helicoil into a thread for a timing belt idler. Apparently nobody does a house call either, so I would have to get the car towed to a machine shop. I'm worried that if I did that, that somewhere along the way of the towing or fixing the thread that my valves will get fucked up since the car doesn't and can't have the timing belt on. If I provided beer and cash would someone like to come out here to fix it? The size of the bolt is M10x1.25. I'm about out of options now and I really just want my car to be driving again.
Just realized I forgot some information. The bolt threads in fine, but won't torque down. It gets tight to a certain point, and then it's loose again. Would a tap fix this? I was going to go with a helicoil, but I don't want to drill in the block. I have no experience fixing threaded holes.
Is it a dead end hole? I don't know on subarus but have been able to helicoil a toyota or two.If this is into the block you want to repair it correct the first time.It sounds like you have to use helicoil but you could try a tap first.you might need a bottoming tap depending on how much thread you have/need.if that fails then you probably have to drill it. in some situations I have gone up to a larger thread/bolt but prob. will not work here.I don't know if this is an interference engine but you do not want to lose a t-belt.
I was told I was probably going to have to use a helicoil, but I don't feel comfortable drilling into my block for a timing related thread. I can't go to a bigger bolt because it is for a timing idler. Anybody use the Form a Thread? I'm going to check for another day to see what I can do. If I don't find another solution, I would much rather pay someone that feels comfortable installing a helicoil into my block. Anybody here want to earn some cash? I don't like the idea of towing it to fix the thread, then towing it back home to finish with my timing belt. I want this fixed soon I'm tired of not being able to drive my car. Edit:Loctite "Form A Thread" is not intended to be used in "critical" assemblies such as steering components, brake parts, internal engine components or high pressure hydraulic/pneumatic repairs. "Loctite Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair Kits are ideal for repairing items such as carburetor to manifold studs, distributor clamp threads, oil drain plugs, and other similar applications. This super strong thread repair compound can save you both time and money!" Oil drain plug sounds critical to me. Water pump sounds important to me too, the valve cover not quite as important but still up there since the oil could be lost. I'm thinking internal engine components are meant as completely internal, and the timing idler could be ok but I don't really want to rely on ok because it is pretty critical. It sounds ok, but I'm pretty sure a helicoil would be better right? Anybody feel comfortable installing one for me? The problem is the limited space between the block and bumper beam.
Why dont you call up SOG and ask to speak with Bob, one of their best master tech's. He should be able to set you straight. I bought a full tap and die set from craftsman that was metric.
Is this the idler nearest the water pump? If it is, just replace the pump as the lower idler is attached to it. I always replace the pump when I do a timing belt.
I agree with LiquidForce. And it's pretty cheap. www.thekingofparts.com is the cheapest I've found and they are a Subaru dealership. They have stuff to me in 2 days...Atlanta area would probably be 3 days.
Dude, the same exact thing happened to me when I was doing a timing belt job on my del Sol. I had it towed to a shop, they fixed it and I was out $500 but had my car back with a valuable leason (one that I've tried to pass on.) Jus tow it to SOG, pay the man and move on. End the stress on yourself. oh yeah, AND LISTEN TO ME THIS TIME
Lol. This is what went wrong with the other belt otherwise it would've been on the road and I would've saved about $400, and I know how to change the belt now. Money is something I don't have much of right now. It's been a very shitty year and money has been tight the entire time. It is the idler just left of the crank, and the hole goes about an inch deep in the block. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Sometimes bolts have mysteriously stripped coming out for the first time.whether they were installed incorrectly at the factory or they seize due to differences in the metal or poor threads from original, etc, this can happen to just about anyone.The difference is what you do about it.I figure if you end spending the same $ but learn how to or how not to do something then it probably was worth it.Next time around you can do it yourself and save $$
Exactly. It's my car, so I wanted to get more experience for future times. I bought a tap though. If it doesn't work I'll tow it somewhere and won't be any worse than now. Edit: tapping didn't work. I can get the bolt tight enough the idler doesn't move, but not near the torque required. I did however make some clean threads. So now I also know how to tap. Yay for more experience.
I'm getting it towed to a machine shop. Which is probably best and insurance will reimburse me up to $50 each time it gets towed!