Tools: 1/2" drive cheater bar 17mm wrench 12mm wrench hammer 4 washers with large diameter opening 3/8" drive torque wrench (optional) brake cleaner wheel stud ($2) 1. There are two 17mm bolts (59ft./lbs.) that connect the brake caliper to the knuckle which needs to be removed. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the brake line attachment to the strut. Pull the rotor and caliper off together and set it on something so the brake line doesn't get stretched. 2. The wheel studs should now be exposed and the broken stud will need to be hammered out (see 1st picture). Once the stud is out, put the new stud in and place the 4 washers between one of your wheel lugs (see 2nd picture). Tighten the wheel lug down until the stud is flush with the back of the stud holder. It helps to have a big wrench between two of the other good studs to prevent the wheel from turning when you are compressing the stud into its hole. Use it as a counter lever. 3. Once the stud is close to flush, place the rotor back on (clean first), and then the brake caliper with bolts. Tighten the brake line hose to strut and tighten the rotor nut. Once caliper has been refastened to the strut assembly, have someone depress the brake pedal to finish pressing in the stud. Once the stud is flush, put the wheel back on and you are set to go. Note: If you don't have a torque wrench, just get the brake bolts tight. I was autox'ing last weekend and sheered the wheel stud. It hapened because I had to change the front driver side wheel to the back because it was starting to cord bad. When I was tightening the lug back down, it was hot and I used the proper torque specs, but it was too much for a hot wheel stud. If you autox frequently and have to change wheels, it may be a good idea to have this stuff in your tool box, especially if you are far away from home. Hope this helps save some money!
It's about a 45 minute job. Someone quoted me about $50 to have it repaired at a shop. So this would definitely save you about $40, depending on how much tools you have.
I edited the tutorial. I originally had the large axle nut being removed, but that was unnecessary as I found out this weekend. I had to change another stud after sheering one again at an autox.