from top left clockwise, coolant line to the turbo res, line to the TB, line to heater core, the bottom two go to the water pump.
Yes! Thanks guys! After you guys posted that I took off the manifold and figured out why there was two loose bolts on my coolant crossover pipe. HAHA. Bolted everything down and it's starting to look more like a motor =). Thanks for the help guys! I can always count of WRXATL
Update: Thanks to B reel and Sparta for pointing me in the right direction. Got the coolant lines bolted in and everything assembled. Also I didn't have my inlet during my assemble the first around time, so I didn't get the chance to put the inlet on before putting the intake manifold on. So this time around I had my inlet and slapped it on before I assembled everything for the second time. I also did a leakdown test, but I think I did it wrong. I set my compressor to 100 PSI and I opened up the leak tester, but I don't think I ran enough pressure. I also wasn't sure if I did timing right so wasn't sure if TDC was really TDC HAHA. My friend that helped me said that my timing was good, but when I looked at it, it seems like I was off by one tooth. I'll take a picture and let you guys determine it. Here is a SHORT clip of one of the test. They were all pretty consistent and stayed in the green. I had one cylinder that was in the yellow "set", but then again I might have done it all wrong. [youtube]M-EcQymn1tc[/youtube]
Cool, since the motor is still out, I'll hook it up again and run it again with some oil in there and see the outcomes of it.
Turn crank until everything hits the timing marks. Take pic of each mark on the cam gears and the crank. I'll tell ya (or someone else) if you are in time or not.
I don't think I was low on any cylinders. I was watching a video of a guy doing it on youtube, he said to run the gauge to 14.5 psi. Don't know if that's the right pressure to run but I did it and they all came out decent. Yea I'm gonna do that for you guys and see if I'm dead on with timing. That's the last thing I want to screw up on period lol. I do not want to pull out this motor again unless I'm upgrading.
Just making sure that it's at TDC and if anything I'm worried about my driver side. Kinda hard to read and lineup, but is this correct timing? This one in particular I think I'm off by one tooth
And another way to check that you are TDC is take cylinder 1 and put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole. When the piston is all the way up top you are at TDC.
I'm not, just wondering if it would haha. Don't worry my timing is my first priority right now. I gotta take off the tensioner and compress it and redo it and I'll take more pictures just to verify it with you guys
Here's something I've had to do....you think it through. The pass side isn't gonna change. But walk yourself through what happens when you put tension on the driver's side. The tensioner will pull the drivers side cams therefore pulling them out one tooth. I have had to put the two driver's cams off one tooth so that when the tensioner was released, it pulled the drivers side into timing. It depends on the belt. When I used an aftermarket belt this was the case. OEM belt I've never had that issue. That make sense? You may want to get someone very experienced with it to help ya.
Yea that makes perfect sense, and that's probably why I was off timing when I did this(using gates timing belt). Yea when my friend and I were doing it on my N/A motor with an OEM belt we didn't have this issue like you said with an OEM timing belt. I'll play around with it, I'm getting my friend to help me so it will be easier with two people on it.
My Gate's belt did the exact same thing. It was a little longer than stock to be honest. I threw it away and went with the OEM belt......zero issue then. The gates belt made the car like half a tooth off.
If I can't get it to work then I'll just invest in an OEM one. It's just I already have it, why not use it LOL. If it's not worth the troubles then I'll just opt for an OEM one, depending on how much it cost :eek3:
facebook still works like it used to. you just have to hit F5 to refresh the image to get it to a copy-able image.
That's good to know haha. Anyways a guy is selling this and I'm not sure if it's an STI one or not, and apparently the 04 STI are the only known steering rack that will work with my car with a mod to the steering column link.
Yea I just saw that, Looks like I'll just use my old one (-_-). I really want to upgrade my steering rack because it's developing a small leak....and steering rack leak is not good.
HAHA I've been looking at those! I would love to have one of those, but it just doesn't seem practical for a DD. Imagine letting someone driving your car with a Quick Rack that has no idea about it LMAO.
Pulled the motor out! It's so much easier with two people.. My skinny ass alone on it was pretty damn hard LOL. Another question for you guys. I pulled the flywheel off and I can see very thin hairline cracks in them. I herd that I can get the flywheel machined (which I'm gonna do regardless) it may fix the problem. Should I go ahead and replace it, or just machine it and hope the hairline cracks go away?
Any recommendations on a good machine shop? Preferably near Gwinnett Area, I'm willing to make a drive if it's worth it. How much an I looking at? $40?
UPDATE So my sister decided to steal my camera for her trip to France, so now I'm camera less. The only thing I have is my GoPro camera so no nice detailed pictures. Still working on timing, I can't get it right. I might just go buy a OEM belt and be done with it. I'm tired of doing it, unless one of you guys want to come help me with it HAHA. So I just stopped working on my motor for now and went to work on everything else. I dropped the old crossmember and threw in the new Turbo one in today. Looks like I'm gonna have to shim my control arms to make it fit. I herd people pushing out the old bushings and replacing it with new WRX bushings and it fit the crossmember just fine(without shimming). I was also thinking of upgrading them to the JDM aluminum ones while I'm at it, but who knows if I will have the funds for those right now. Also starting the interior breakdown. Unfortunately the wiring is very labor intensive. I pretty much have to tear everything out from under the dash and replace it with the new merged harness. The harness isn't finished yet, running into some random "don't know where this wire connects too" problems, but it doesn't matter because I'm still waiting on parts. Just pretty much tore down the whole interior and took out the dash. The heater core is next and then pulling out the old harness. I was smart and bought another set of wiring harness so that I could drive my car while it was being merged, but now that my car is down, doesn't matter HAHA.
Got some parts in so just a small update. Nothing mechanical really. Still trying to get this damn Gates timing belt on so gonna get off work early tomorrow and work on that some more. Just got the Grimmspeed crosspipe, grimspeed EBCS and some injectors. Still need an exhaust and some random stuff, but for the most part this thing is about ready to be dropped in.
Alright so after doing some research and LOTS of re-timing, I'm just going to stick with what I have it timed to now. It's slightly off on driver side at TDC. I need to get more conformation from either a master tech or someone really knowledgeable. I've been reading here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1893380 and http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2077134 and they say that it's perfectly normal for timing to be off by half a tooth on a brand new belt that hasn't been stretched. I've gotten 2 other mechanics to help me and this is the best we can do HAHA. It's off by half a tooth EVERY time we time it. We used both the marks provided on the belt itself and manually counting the teeth. I'm still super paranoid about it, but I need to ask around to Subaru techs who have actually encountered this problem.
It'll run fine but will be down on power by a good bit. On my car when I had the Gates off half a tooth we couldn't get my car to make more than 360hp on pump gas. I took car home and installed OEM belt which was DEAD on perfect. Took care back to dyno and a few super minor adjustments and no extra boost made 400 hp. That half tooth is enough to crack a valve open and screw up the powerband.
Ouch! That's not what I want to hear HAHA. I still have a ton of stuff to buy for my swap and this OEM timing belt is going to have to find a way into my budget. If anyone has a hook up on Subaru OEM parts let me know. The cheapest I found so far is $120. I guess it would make sense to swap out the belt if it makes that much of a difference and will save my motor in the long run. That being said...who wants to buy a brand new Gates Timing belt HAHA