2013 STI Rotated Turbo Project

James (ihadmail) says he may but he has no way of getting in the shop until Monday.

 

6 1/2 hrs. My truck drinks gas. Thought it was a very fair price delivered last minute. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

I found one but can't find the other so i'll just have to reschedule tuning and delay it a few days. no big deal.

 

Are you running a stock header?

 

Unfortunately.
I want the ETS one or kelly's (tigwerks) one but budget sais no.
It's the last piece of the puzzle.

 

Mike likes the invidia one, still too pricey new though.

 

That would make a huge difference on your build. I really like the Invidia unit as well. There have been a ton of proven builds on that piece.

 

I would actually be tempted to figure out when you can get one and wait on tuning for that personally. Since you have a DD now...that final piece is a big enough deal at your power levels that it would be worth waiting on and would save you tuning money in the long run.

 

Talking to kelly now

 

I like the invidia one

1/2 as much as them otha's

Are you getting a break in tune or going to drive it some to let the rings reseat and what not?

 

yeah i'm going to put a few hundred or a thousand miles on it and let it have a few dozen thermal cycles before tuning.

kelly has a deal going on right now with his I think i'm going to grab.

 

looks like this will be part of the project soon.

 

It's a good 321 design so twin scroll-like up to the 2 bolt collector / uppipe.
can't believe I don't have an AOS lol. will probably need one now.

 

An AOS is a must have as well. Kelly is a good guy. He has a CTS-V wagon.

 

well it keeps a nice suction on the crankcase to help ring seal (no matter what the mod level) and keeps you from burning oil from the crankcase vents going back into the inlet tube.

in my case with my ETS inlet tube, there are no nipples for these returns, so without an AOS I would at the very minimum need breather caps on mine since they currently just vent to atmosphere.

 

AOS also keep the intake and your intercooler nice and clean if it's a good and properly routed system. Crawford is one of the best kits for the Subaru. Ixiz is an example of a worthless pos kit.

 

Debating on cerami-coating that header before putting it on.
That might create a scheduling issue so I might skip it and/or do it later. Not exactly a difficult piece to remove once it's in the car.

def no wrap this time, my experience with it is pretty poor.

 

You need to wrap or coat it in something. Even if you use the Defi wrap as a temporary measure. The way our exhaust manifolds sit directly under the block is really bad for heat soak. Especially if you are getting it dyno tuned...you will run into major problems with rapidly climbing IAT's as you get deeper into the tuning. I would not just leave it bare if you want good results.

 

i'll get it coated, this is just to get it broke in and check for leaks. it's easy to remove from in the car, one of the few pieces that are lol.

 

Way to go, think you'll get it started before Monday?

 

That's the plan!

 

Nice....He sure does know how to weld

 

Yep he sure does!


I think I did one of the two:

put my coils in reversed on one or both sides

flipped the injector plugs wrong on one or both sides.

primed it just fine for oil and got pressure and good flow, put my fuel pump fuse back in and it made good pressure no leaks in the new system, but wouldn't fire.

flipped one sides coil plugs and it tried to crank so maybe that's it i'll fool with it more tomorrow.

heard of crank position sensors doing this but none of my teeth were missing to my memory and the CPS is in there and plugged in, also no DTC's

yawn this is more of a journal for me to remember tomorrow then anything

 

Looking good James!

 

Make sure you have the fuel lines in the right place. Easy to get the switched.

 

Not getting some Forged style determination with that hammer right there are you?

 

haha, FORGED STYLE FTW!!!!!
beat it into submission.


actually the ETS up pipe support bracket that connects to the two tranny bolts wasn't the right shape / size after switching to the tigwerks header. His header is about 0.5-1" to the left of the stock one so the bracket just misses the bolt holes, even after some "forged style motivating" lol

 

Why the sad face? What's going on?

 

Car is at TSM now. It will get broken in on the dyno and setup with a break in map.
I thought I had either the coils reversed or the injector plugs backwards but neither seems to be the case. Either way it won't start but cranks and builds oil pressure fine.

I will let king figure it out I don't want to risk messing up my investment at this point.

 

Cool deal.....wouldn't be surprised if the fuel feeds are backwards....I done that once.

 

It builds 50psi while priming and cranking so I don't think it could be that.

 

Mine did to. Puzzled me for a bit.

 

how is that even possible? with the design of the FPR isn't it a check valve of sorts you can't have pressurized fuel coming in via the return can you?

 

Not really sure about all that but I remember I did that and I was getting pressure and everything. Called WJM and he immediately told me to check the feeds and swap them....voila it cranked on demand. It may be a matter of where I was checking the pressure at vs where yours register. Dunno it's been many years now.

 

Here is what it is:

 

i did top (black) feed, bottom (gray) return

 

I want to get him a huge burger king guy outfit.

THE KING

 

yeah its very hard for me to imagine that hasn't been done already, he just fits the personality of the king without even wearing the costume lol

 

could be the coil packs not on the spark plugs. They can easily go in crooked and miss the plug completely.

If thats the case drain the oil, you don't want to break in on thinned out oil from all the fuel wash out.

 

lol that would be hillarious.

I just looked up a ton of pictures of the firewall connections for the fuel lines, mine are definitely right so i dunno

 

Justin I know you had (or thought you had) an issue at one point with one of the cam sprockets not being on the dowell properly.

With my new GSC cams, when I went to put the belt on and load up the drivers side intake cam to set it, I noticed that the amount of turn I did under cam lobe contact was a lot less then with the stock ones.

In other words with the stock ones you started feeling resistance a lot earlier in the "rotation", with the GSC's it was a much shorter time under load before the marks lined up.
Made me wonder if the difference in the cams accounted for this, or if the sprocket was on with the dowell in the wrong hole.
I checked and it seemed to be right, but I can't really tell without comparing to the stock cam.

 

I'm confused....so your fuels line are on right or you haven't heard yet? Your pics are too effing big to be useful....lol.

 

to me, they are on right, according to my pictures I took of my car, and pictures i've seen of everyone elses GR's.

 

also get a real monitor lol