2013 STI Sedan EJ257 Rebuild Project

I have the ACT sprung 6 puck as well.

 

http://www.importimageracing.com/act-xtreme-duty-street-clutch-kit-for-04-13-subaru-sti.html

that might be overkill or no?

 

Trying to figure out the main difference between a disc and 4 or 6 puck.
You'd think the increased surface area of the disc would offer more holding power, but it looks to be the opposite.

 

The full face organic will be more driver friendly. But the sprung 6 puck is not bad at all. Just a little more grippy.

 

It's simple physics. You can hold more with a puck style(assuming same pressure plate).
It is all about the psi on the disc... Less surface area, means more clamp force per area on the disc.

Full disc is easier engagement but does not hold as much.

 

I think the ACT SB10-XTSS extreme duty disc is the one for me.
I want to retain as easy an engagement as possible since I unfortunately have found myself in stop and go traffic more then I would like. Even the stock clutch can get on your nerves in those situations, especially the day after training legs.

I can get from amazon with free shipping same price as import, but I have prime so free shipping.
I really wish I could turn the stock barely used clutch into some $$$ though. Sucks to just let it sit when it still looks brand new.

 

Stock parts on our cars are essentially worthless.

 

I ran a full face ACT disc with their Extreme Pressure plate and held fine @580 WHP and was MUCH easier to drive than the 6 puck.

 

yeah i'm going to leave it alone for now.
I need to keep costs under control and get it back on the road.
IF / when I get my margins back, and also get a daily driver I'll start thinking bigger things. Won't need a bigger clutch until then anyway and I don't see that happening soon.

The next time the motor comes out it will be for major stuff (bigger turbo, clutch, fueling and whatever) and i'll just do it all at once.

I keep forgetting how I ended up here, and why i'm doing this myself. TO SAVE $$$ lol

 

you can check out www.clutchspecialty.com, he can rebuild any clutch and add different springs/friction material/etc and is relatively cheap. TopSpeed has used him as well as other performance shops and he has about a day turn around time. He rebuilt my clutch and even met me on my side of town when it was finished to save me a trip back down to Atlanta to the shop.

http://www.clutchspecialty.com/

 

404 error on that page, sounds like a good guy to know though.

 

Try the second link.

He did my pressure plate and clutch disk with new material for $75 I believe. Performance parts may be a little more but you get the picture. Alot cheaper than a whole new kit.

 

Zing, fixed.
I'll definitely keep that in mind, and now everyone reading can reference as well.


Question, what spark plugs do you guys run? OEM? Champion? Obviously I want to keep using iridium plugs and not copper, but OEM's are way more expensive then champions for both being iridium.
I want to go ahead and swap out all 4 of mine while i'm doing this just to be safe. They don't exactly look bad, but considering all the oil that was blowing by there for a few miles before the teardown it can't hurt anything (cept the wallet)

 

You can leave the OE plugs in there as they should be fine with on 17,000 miles but if you choose to replace them, go with the NGKs.

 

My ACT has an exedy disc, stamped right on the center section. I'm sure the pressure plate is ACT and that's what does the clamping, where the material does the holding, and the spring/ design affect engagement.

I know ACT stuff can be purchased separately too.

 

Yea I'd stick with the NGKs. I heard people talk about "One step colder" but I never looked to much into it.Maybe some people can clarify but I just went with the OE plugs. Figured you cant go wrong with what it suppose to be in it.

 

There is no reason for you to go one step colder with your mods

 

Well I just ran my numbers by ACT and might need to upgrade my clutch for my power. I don't know if you'd be interested in a used clutch but its an ACT HD Street disk and Pressure plate. With 10000 babied miles... seriously. 2000 break in miles from the motor, 5000 roadtripping miles the rest were around town. All at 324ft lbs of torque.

ACT made an interesting case. They said my HD pressure plate holds 515, with the street disc, but 650 with a 6puck sprung disc. Where if I wanted the same street disc to hold 560ft/lbs I'd need the Xtreme pressure plate.

If you want a puck design disc you may just be able to upgrade that and use the oem Pressure plate.

 

Nice! Thanks for the offer too, i'm probably going to wait on the clutch until later even though it will be a pain.
I need to keep costs to a minimum and get it back on the road for now.

I keep letting my dreams outrun my wallet.
should have never watched stirino's youtube of his car leaving topspeed after it's tune....

 

Screw the wallet and build like this Evo.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...Example-of-Truly-Impressive-Turbo-Engineering

 

ha, cnc block from a solid piece.
that's just absurd. the rod comparison picture made me lol

 

Do they not make the innovative LC-1 wideband gauge in a 60mm?
All I can find is the 52mm. I got a 60mm pod.... Is there an adapter to fill in the blank area?
I really don't want any other gauge because the color matches the stock stuff so well.

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=60mm+to+52mm+gauge+adapter

 

was that really necessary?
it was more a question of "are there ones that suck asshole and you shouldn't use"

never mind...

 

Oh wow...WTF. I posted a link that listed several options and this is the response I get for trying to help? I honestly was trying to help.

 

it's fine man, you clearly don't spend much time on the internet seeing what lmgtfy.com is normally used for.
and it isn't to be helpful lol

this is actually the first time I have ever seen it used as a non-troll.
point taken though, there are numerous options.
probably get the cheapest one.

 

There are no 60mm wideband options. Part of the reason I went with all 52's.

 

Yeah I was going to do that too, but I figured go big or go home heh.
i'm also putting them on the A-pillar in true rice fashion.
As i've said somewhere before in another thread, I never really got to "rice out" in my youth regarding gauges and what-not.

 

so i've decided to go ahead and get andrew to clean / deck the heads too before putting them back together.
Hardly worth any issues with compression or head gaskets because the block is perfect, and the heads weren't.

I need to call him, but just hard to get him since he only gets there after 2pm. By then i'm wide open at work

 

Maybe my reading comprehension is broke but I never saw that question so I apologize.

Plastic is plastic mostly so any adapter will work as long as it match the color and the design closely. Good luck with your build and research.

 

PLX makes a full color 60MM gauge and you can add the Wideband module to it. That is what I used in my Legacy.

 

UPDATE:

Just got my Tigwerks oil pickup tube and air pump deletes.
Check out the amazing welding on this pickup tube

 

UPDATE:

Stopped by Ball to drop off the cylinder heads and oil pickup for them.
Here was the progress so far...

 

Smart move being that you were bitching about your motor scattered all over the floor at SOG. Have to think the oil passages aren't all that big and lube is like water in that it flows the path of least resistance.

 

he's going to balance the crank as well I believe. Probably still pretty balanced but either way these guys are clearly on top of things.

 

Document everything as you will revisit this thread in 70-80k

 

Hopefully just new bearings and possibly 100mm pistons though.

I know for me it will just be pistons and case halves. I unfortunately have enough crankshafts my wife is getting them drilled through to make table lamps


I know you capped the budget but there are 2 stock location gtx3071 and gtx3076 turbo's on nasioc for around $1600

Like I said in an earlier post my friend made almost 400 with a turbo, fuel pump, 1150cc injectors, and intake and exhaust. You could meet your goal and leave well enough alone.


And let me tell you, my 311whp with a journal bearing turbo felt like a turtle next to the top end and transient response of his dom 1.5

 

Yeah I can do all that at my leisure though after putting the motor in. Money is the factor right now, plus I want to rotate it since it's a lot easier to work on that way as many have said.

should be getting a defi boost / defi oil pressure and lc-1 db-red afr gauges next week mon or tue. already have a triple pod a-pillar from jcs pods and got an ati 52mm to 60mm adapter for the lc-1.

also got some black vinyl trim to cover the chrome trim on the doors, it's really annoying. also got some yellow fog overlays to see how they look, might be too much.

i'm hoping andrew gives me some good news on monday or tuesday as well, but that might be asking too much. I need to start putting this thing back together!

it's TURBO WEATHER

 

Any stock location 30/35r is a joke. Don't do it. The only stock location turbo I would do is a dom 1.5

 

I finally pulled the trigger on the holy shift kit and kartboy shifter.
I've been putting that off for way too long honestly.

That's the main thing I needed. Boy when you go down the road of bushings / mounts it's a massive spiral lol

 

OP updated with new pics as well as updated parts acquisition list.

 

In the interest of helping save money, the TGV deletes are going to do very very little in terms of power gains.

 

Yeah maybe, the jury is still out on that one (way too many conflicting opinions) so i'm just applying what I know about air flow to that decision, and in no way can I find a way to perceive it as a "negative" thing.

also I already removed my stock TGV's and am looking forward to cleaning up the wiring harness mess of the intake manifold at least that much. That plus the air pump delete alone is going to clean things up in the engine bay a lot, which is a partial goal in doing both anyway.

Also the TiC TGV deletes i'm going to use eliminate the need for spacers to eliminate heat transfer which everyone knows is all but mandatory, so that alone is a reason.

 

I deleted mine, but only because i did it myself so it was a zero cost mod. Go get phenolic spacers - they're cheap and help better with heatsoak than anything else.

also, don't waste time / money trying to clean up the engine bay - it's impossible. I spent WAY too much money converting all the hoses to braided lines w/ AN fittings, and it still never came out like i wanted it. I also powder coated a lot of stuff, including the intake manifold, head covers and TGV's. Bottom line, Subaru has the most hideous engine bay among production cars, and there's not much you can do to fix it ;/

 

Hehehehe that is one FUGLY worthless block of aluminum sitting on that firewall.

 

KStech make cheap tgv block off plugs we used on a build. Removed the servo's, cut out the butterflies and rod, the port work was mostly just cutting the divider plate and smoothing the edges. Then you just insert the plugs and screw on the plates.

No welding required and it can all be done in your garage.

My manifold still gets pretty hot with the 3mm phenolic spacers. I've been back and forth on the MAW composite tgv's I really like how smooth they are on the outside, but just a little apprehensive about the threaded inserts holding.

I also deleted my harness... I considered doing a wire tuck but quickly realized there is no where else to run anything in a subaru engine back, and it will always be fugly

this was it after I removed everything back to its junctions or the super plug... the next pic shows EVERYTHING that came out. I have th old style tgv's to there were plugs on both sides of the housing and I removed the air pump plugs, cut the atmospheric sensor of the air pump part that mounts above the starter, and removed that PCV check valve on the turbo inlet that everyone just pulls the bridge terminal out of the valve and sticks in the plug.

 

Justin where are you located man? Ever feel up to stopping by for a beer and some wrenching lol

Everytime I think of something and post, you respond with a full story on how you've been there, done that. I think "a beer" wouldn't do justice now that I'm thinking about it...