2013 STI Sedan EJ257 Rebuild Project

Yeah i'm hoping with only 17k on it that heat stuff isn't an issue with the plastic, I'll also be real careful about any tightening on plastic stuff. I know those timing covers crack at nothing.
I thought about painting them red for the "cool" factor, but they will just show dirt more that way.

 

And will look like garbage when the paint starts to come off.....and trust me, the paint wont last forever.

 

I feel ya there. I currently have 2 maps to work with for my car... granted I don't know how to work with them.

My current tune is for the vf39 setup I started with via open source. It was great because when I swapped in the ID1000's with my 20g, I just changed the scale and latencies and had a running car still.

When I go that first built motor put in I planned on running that map for break in since it would be easy miles and ran fine before. I've had a cobb for who knows how long that I haven't used because I couldn't copy the table from my open source maps to the AP.

Now that this setup will be speed density I have a SD AP map but its for a GR Sti, so I have to take those tables and link them to my 07 wrx configuration for it to flash to my ecu.

If I can get those values into my ecu tables I will run this for my new break in map and then get a protune specific to my car after. I just can't find an easy way to copy all 80 bajillion tables and when I try to reenter them manually, there are some blocks that prevent me from entering certain values.

Good luck this weekend getting the car back on the road. I'll pm you my number if you have any questions you can't get answers to.

Helicoil is M6x1.00 if I recall they are not cheap so I wouldn't buy one unless you have to. If anything buy it and return it if you don't use it.

 

lol, well both my hands look like they been through a meat grinder.
holy shift kit is a holy bitch to install man let me tell you, especially without the car on a lift.
I'm not happy with the amount of grease I put in, and I THINK I put the lopsided universal joint piece in the way it came out, but we'll see tomorrow too tired to keep going and its dark.

wired all my gauges then realized i looped part of the harness around another harness. Had to break a bunch of connections and start over.

I think being sick is affecting my judgement big time

 

Well the day has come. Andrew should be calling me at some point to go pick up the motor. I'm going to try and have the gauges / shifter / bushings and all the stuff I tore apart back together by the time he does so I can focus on that.

Anyone with spare time is welcome to come help, I could use all the help I can get.

 

M?x1.25 is the usual pitch for the nuts and bolts, smallest is M?x1.00

 

Shifter bushings installed, shifter installed and everything is back together. Thing feels solid as hell to me, of course I can't tell much until it gets back on the road.

Now if the phone would just ring... it's already 10:30

 

Question:
How the hell do you get these O rings to stay in their groove when bolting these to the intake manifold???



Second Question:
I didn't get a set of o-ring type gaskets for the bottoms with the TGV's, can I just use the stock gasket pictured on the right?

 

Not saying he wont get done with it but dont be too upset if he doesnt. I would rather wait another day or two than get a motor that was thrown back together because of a deadline.

 

Errr....I would call/email TIC right away and find out about the bottom o-rings. I would think you would want the o-rings to seal properly.

 

Just Emailed them, this is what their gaskets look like:


They clearly have a rubber ridge on the gasket surface for that indentation.
Great.

 

Now how do you get the blasted o rings to stay in the grooves?
I tried stretching them slightly, but they shrink right back into their "too small" size and flop right out.

 

put them in the reefer

 

integroid stopped by and we smushed em in there.
now I just need to find out whats up with the gaskets on the bottom of them.

 

haha! community ftw!!!!!
Al.SpecB is one cool dude you guys.

Came by on a saturday evening and hung out for at least 3hrs, we got this thing probably half built already. Going to let all the RTV stuff setup over night and I also need to grab a torque wrench but tomorrow looks to be a promising day.

man he is one hell of a guy that's for sure, we need a few more of him in this world / country / state / county / community heh

 

Special Delivery



Progress








Tigwerks Air Pump Delete Plate (one of them, other isn't on yet)

 

Nice congrats

 

Nice Job!

 

whew got the cross over on and doesn't look like anything stripped.

Your going to have to pull that bottom passenger's side idler pulley off to install the rear timing cover. And you can leave it off until the belt is on because that should be where all your slack ends up.

Put those hardlines and the oil dip stick in and get the other rear cover on. That one is kind of a pain as you will have to work it behind the tab on the bracket the timing tensioner pushes against and up against the water pump.

 

Yeah I had to get the cam's torqued down first before I could go any further and couldn't do that last night without a torque wrench.
Just picked one up so i'm back at it.
If anyone can help out I could use it!

Special thanks again to Eddie & Al for stopping by so far (yesterday) you guys rock

 

Ok this is getting annoying, subaru's manual keeps refering to things as LH / RH (Left hand / Right hand) but honestly it seems to vary whether they picture left or right hand as viewing the motor from the pulleys (front) or bellhousing (back) which reverses LH / RH.

For example, with the cam gears it is clearly marked IN LH (Intake Left Hand) but it will not seat all the way onto the keyway on the left intake cam when viewing the motor from the front (pulleys). It does however seat perfectly with minimal effort on the right hand side intake camshaft.

Not exactly something I want to screw up.

 

Yeah they MUST be talking about viewing the motor from the back because the sprockets will only go onto these respective cam's. I think the keyway is a different size to help prevent mistakes.

Stupid manual.

 

lol the cylinder heads are offset in relation to the timing pulleys, of course they can only go on one side.

man now I need this crazy sized allen head to tighten them. Do you guys break down and use a cam tool or do you have another trick for tightening them?

 

pretty much all my tools came from here

http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merc...de=COMPANY23&gclid=CN3Qy9zGyboCFUPl7AodaUoASA

 

oh wow, that place has awesome prices.
any solutions that don't involve waiting for shipping?
Well, then again, I still don't have the right gaskets for these TiC TGV deletes that I got from slowwrx, and no sign of them being "found" either so that's certainly going to keep me from wrapping this up....

 

Sorry man, I would have let you borrow my Snap On torque Wrench. Please tell me you didnt buy one from Harbor Freight or any of the parts stores? Most of the Chinese ones are not calibrated very well.

 

Yeah I got an autocraft... seems to be fine so far i'm pretty well acquainted with what 10ft/lbs should feel like, etc and it's close enough.

My main concern is these cam gears and getting them to 75ft/lbs.
I just don't see how i'm going to do that without the cam tool.
Don't they self tighten? Hence why they are so hard to get off?

 

Came up with a rather novel engineering approach to tightening them.
They are EASILY 75ft/lbs now maybe even tighter, but they are on there let me tell ya

Now to move on.
Redneck engineering FTW

 

Actually it's only 22.1ft/lb in the manual for them, weird.
Meh, they are on there. SOG nerfed up one of the bolt heads too on removal. Noobs.

 

Most of the time you have to weld a rod onto the bolt then use a 5 foot breaker bar to get them off That is actually pretty good that they only messed up one of the cam bolts.

 

True lol, they have all the right tools though you would think only home garage guys would end up doing that.

Valve covers on, RTV setting up on the spots dictated by the manual for those.

Dipstick, hard oil lines for AVCS and all that is on, I guess it's time for the timing belt and what-not. Can't do jack without the TGV gaskets as far as the intake goes.

Man that's a real bummer. I'm trying not to comment too much about that....

 

how long are the bolts for the lower water elbow supposed to be?
I'm getting towards the end of my bolt pile and the only ones that fit and have the right thread pitch are only showing about 6-7 threads when stuck through the elbow...

that doesn't seem like enough to me?

Like this:

 

I just replaced my thermostat and I remember those having a quite a bit more threading than that.

 

yeah i found what must be the bolts for it, and yeah much more threads, that's on now.
i'm more concerned with this, but it looks like SOG's green marks line up just fine from before so i'm guessing this is how it was. double tick's don't line up perfectly though, but every mark on the belt and everywhere else is perfect including both these pullies so dunno???

 

More updates:

 

man, you gotta start resizing these photos, they don't even fit inside a 24" monitor

build looks good, keep it up

 

Yeah sorry, sometimes they are sized perfect other times they just suck.
I'm copying / pasting from facebook so that's probably why.

Any idea on that timing belt photo? I didn't pull the tensioner pin yet just in case... wanted some feedback.

 

Are all the timing marks on the belt and the cams lining up? If it's off just a smidge that's ok....one tooth off is a LOT in relation to the timing marks.

 

Wow! Looks like you got a lot of work done on it on Sunday. Sorry i couldn't by to help. Had plenty of things to do around the house with the fall and winter months coming. Any work on the gaskets?? Ill try to stop by and help you with the intake and wiring harness.

 

All the timing marks on the belts, timing covers, crank gear and everything are all perfect.
I just expected these to line up as well, and it kinda made me nervous when they didn't. Might just be because those cams are loaded?
Also if you look at the green paint SOG put on there, clearly that is exactly the position it was in when they removed it, that makes me feel a little better.

 

Yeah man! Been busy. I am taking tonight off from the gym so that I can work on it some more, but without those gaskets i'm kinda screwed.
At this point it's kind of pissing me off. I have an email to TiC and they replied back asking what year the car was and what type of TGV deletes they were, and I provided them that info almost instantly but still no useful reply.......

 

Yeah you should be good to go. THere is a little slop when the tensioner is not on. A few rotations and eventually all the slop gets tightened out by the tensioner. However once you turn the belt you will never get those lines to line back up with the belt fyi....it take a million turns.

 

I heard that those might just need another set of rubber o-rings....or at least that is how they were originally packaged. Dont know if TIC has changed the design of them to call for different gaskets. I would try and source some locally myself. You would just need to know the diameter and length of the o-ring and look it up on McMaster's site and you can pick them up today or they will even deliver them to you. Just make sure and get the Viton o-rings since they are resistant to many different fuels.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=p8fjcz

 

Remember how I had 4 sets of O rings? The other two are probably for the bottom. DOH! *facepalm moment*

I just got nervous when I saw the actual listed gaskets online in the TiC TGV delete pictures and thought it had to be that gasket.

 

Oh man...you had them this whole time? LOL.....I would use some engine oil on them....it will help you seat them better

 

pull the tensioner pin and then use the diagram in the FSM to count teeth on the timing belt to make sure everything is in time.

should be like 28teeth from cam mark to cam mark, 51 or 57 from pass side cam mark to crank, then 51 or 57 from crank to drivers side cam, and then another 28 from cam to cam

The diagram has them as Z1 Z2 etc

 

Yeah I just wanted to do the tensioner last because I don't have a vice to put it in if I get it wrong and have to start over.

 

i used a c-clamp and a small allen wrench to depress mine when i had to reset it

 

and if you do, do it very very VERY slowly.

 

This is my question for the night:
Will this gasket work on this surface? Or is it meant to be the other way around and an O ring in the groove of the surface?