looks like it should be an o-ring. What's on the intake manifold side? I'm assuming that's for the IM.
Oring on the tgv delete looks like it is to sit in the groove of that gasket???? I don't think that gasket goes on the head it's the upper part that bolts to the intake plenum. That looks like you are laying it on the head in the first pic.
Yeah, you dont need gaskets on either side if you have the O-rings seated in place. This is how the plastic manifolds on the LGT/WRX work.
Ok well I used gaskets AND O rings on the bottom (TGV > Head) is that going to be a problem? The gaskets were flat, so no issues there. I need to find 4 more O Rings for the top, I thought I had them (integroid) but I don't Scrambling trying to find some and have them shipped overnight or something.
as I posted above. They will have them in stock and will deliver to your house same day most of the time.
Yeah haha forgot you posted that. I will check them out. I think I somehow ended up with the TGV deletes for a plastic intake manifold (LGT style). As i'm researching i'm seeing that they sell them for metal intakes, and plastic intakes, and that the design varies only in the presence or absence of the O rings..... Is that going to be an issue? Slowwrx, you said these were for an STI right? That would imply metal intake?
Also, I am pretty sure you just want the rubber o-ring to the block without a gasket. It will seal much better without the gasket in place. Call TIC and ask them.
Yep i'm going to remove the gaskets and use just the O rings. TiC is also overnighting me another 4 O rings in the proper size so I don't have to measure them since I don't have a measuring device for that. Now to just wait on them to show up, can't do much today / tonight anyway because I have to train tonight.
Just need the O rings from TiC to put the intake mani on, hook up the rest of the vac lines to it and tighten the injectors into the new TGV's. Then i'll take it off the engine stand, hang it on the hoist and put the access port covers on, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and put it in the car. I'm hoping i'm done end of week. Time to devote to it will be minimal I have to train every night this week but I do work from home two days so that will help.
when i say training i mean training legs, training chest, etc, as I am back bodybuilding again. i don't like to be one of these fools who forces their gym life down the worlds throat on forums / facebook / etc so I try to use evasive terms for it sorry lol
I actually figured that's what you were talking about. I didn't know if it was that or some MMA or something. I would really like to get into Crossfit myself.
Dude no problem!!! Moral support in the thread and a wealth of knowledge you've shared have been plenty. Plus Al.SpecB has been a HUUUUGE help twice now, I owe dude big time.... He has one of the nicest cleanest legacy GT sedan's I've ever been in as well.
Al let me know if you think you might have time and patience to come by tomorrow, i'll schedule off @ the gym. I have the O rings and i'm putting the TGV's on the intake now to put it on the motor. I really need to get this thing done man riding in your car to NAPA got a fire in me plus it's turbo weather lol
Yea I should be able to stop by tomorrow afternoon. I got pt for the marines at 4pm at the recruiting station, so I should be out of there around 5:30. So after that should be good.
Well we got all the way to hanging it on the hoist and putting on the access cover before mounting the flywheel. I broke off the bottom left bolt when tightening it on. Tried drilling it out for 45mins, no luck. Broke the tip of a star head trying to back it out after a slight drilled out hole. no clue what to do now. does this access cover see a lot of pressure? is a crap ton of RTV not enough?
RTV and bolt down the other bolts. If I'm not mistaken though, doesn't it need a hammer screw driver(proper term slips my mind this late) to put those in, or is it taking them out that you do?
take it back to Andrew and have him heli-coil your mistake or have the potential to coat your clutch with oil. it really is that simple
In all the rebuilds I have done I have never seen oil behind the access cover. I would imagine that if there was oil behind it you would already have a problem worse than oil on your clutch.
RTV and tighten other bolts. Pay attention to your tq specs. I just don't get why people snap bolts all the time.
I think the amount of RTV that got on the bolt threads made it tighter then it should have been. Also, I don't know my own strength these days lol. That's also why I snapped a tempered star driver off when i finally had it in the hole. Can't even drill the little star tip that's in there out the metal is so hard, yet I snapped it like a twig lol
ok so the consensus is just load it up with RTV and put the other bolts on? I don't think i've seen any rebuild videos where when they removed the access cover it had oil on it either, so that's confidence building. Just wish it had been a bolt at the top instead of the one directly on the bottom. Oh well.
Just RTV the entire edge of the cover. VOILA no oil if it was to happen. Redneck engineering at it's best.
I vote all of the above down as that is where mine was leaking from. I'd still try to get it out. drill it some more heat it, use an extractor... something should get it out. Those heads were a PIA to get out. I had the steel plate cover and just replaced the machine screws with bolts for future use.
made it through the entire build without a single stripped bolt or broken anything until the friggin access cover. talk about an f uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu moment
I hate oil leaks I remember a certain member getting bent about an oil leak after breaking a few bolts on their valve covers. RTV didn't help his situation either. why half ass a rebuild and create a potential problem? how many of these people telling you to ignore the broken bolt are going to show up at your house to help pull the motor when/if oil spray gets on your clutch?
Are you using good bits or cheap AutoZone bits? Use a good bit, don't push down on it, and pour a little oil on the bolt to help keep the bit cool. Heat will kill a bit in a heartbeat.
clean area then seal up ALL open holes get a small center punch and ball ping hammer and punch the center of the broken bolt. use an 1/8" bit first and slowly drill a hole. use dish soap as a lube and this will also keep shit from flying everywhere. clean up and step up the bit size till the easy-out fits. clean
done all that, broke my 4th drill bit (they are good bits) while using lube and just broke a bolt extractor. i'm done at this point.
I stand corrected. It has been a while since I had one apart. Clearly you need to get that bolt out and have a helicoil put in.
just went by and saw andrew with the motor, he said there is no way in hell that bolt is coming out, especially not now with a hardened ez out tip in there as well. he said since you have to pry these plates off with a pry bar due to the RTV on them that it should be fine to just load up the RTV and make sure to apply pressure (have something pushing on that corner) while it sets up overnight. All I can do at this point.
I guess I did have more issues... lots of blow by pressurizing the crank case. Not enough to blow out seals but still leak from there.
haha had it almost all the way on and realized i had the throw out on backwards. talk about an lol moment