I'd be interested in seeing what kind of filter media (if any) is in these air oil separators. maybe a coalescence type filter would be appropriate, especially where it could be easily removed and serviced. we used a same type setup in rotary screw compressors for refrigeration. entrained oil would be in a vapor mixture, and a coalescence filter was installed inline. the oil collected due to the coalescence filters and was returned to a sump
there is no filter element in the ixizAOSep - Its a simple system once you understand how it works. I opt for an easy solution. But you can add all sorts of items or add ons if you like. If you are getting oil in the intake (pre turbo) then 1. your drain line is clogged 2. your pulling more vacuum then your crankcase and heads venting Both easily solvable I cant change nature or laws of physics. when hot air meets cold = condensation (look at your cold beer can/bottle on a hot day). This happens only in colder months. If you pull of your oil pan after a drive you will see the mayo looking substance everywhere but it will burn off as it reaches temperature.
its all relative so please define "uber" I also want a "car" to do 0-60 in 3 sec limitations in $ and has to be on planet earth Physically possible YES, available to buy it from cars.com NO
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uber Do it. Who's stopping you? No one but yourself... Money ($) is simply an object to overcome, quite easy in fact. As for "has"... HASBRO INC (HAS)? Health Administration Systems (has.com)? You can has a cheezburger? Why would you want to buy something like that from cars.com? Anyhow, there are presently 4 cars in factory form you can buy. If you want to only be 0.1 seconds SLOWER than your 3 second goal, buy a GT-R. Tires, exhaust, tune...done. You are 3.0 or faster now. You CAN get that one from cars.com, there are many listed.
You'd send most of your crankcase oil on the ground....thats why. Leave the 3 big ports alone, they balance the crankcase pressures. The PCV ports are baffled as to not let *as much* oil out...if properly separated and plumbed...things go well and you dont use crankcase pressure to make your oil disappear.
2 ports from heads and 1 port from crankcase not balanced and pulses vented to ground or catch can does not return oil back and after a few hard runs you will be out of or low on lube. you can has this problem If you track / race your car you can get in trouble for venting to ground oil and tires will not be a happy union
you can, and that's the way all cars were prior to the early 60s seriously guys? if you run an open PCV system, the crankcase won't build pressure. blowby gasses will just vent out, and the crankcase will never pressurize. stop being retarded about this. almost all modern diesel engines run this way.
picked this up from a hot rod chevy v8 forum... but it applies here i suspect... Lets get definitive about this. Every engine, old or new creates pressure in the crankcase. It comes from several sources, heating of the oil drives off water vapor, there is blowby on even a new engine, and fuel and other impurities also vaporize, creating this pressure. If you don't vent it somehow, the pressure will get high enough to blow out the gaskets, valve covers, oil pan, rear main seal, ect. The old school way of doing it was a breather in the front of the engine, and a road draft tube in the rear. Now a road draft tube is not just a tube. It was extended into the low pressure area under the car, and cut in such a way at the bottom end, that a partial vacuum was created. This kept the fumes from creating a pressure in the crankcase, and blowing out gaskets. The major disadvantage, it vented the vapors into the air with no treatment, and pulled unfiltered air, along with the dust and so forth into the crankcase, where it mixed with the oil creating more wear. Another disadvantage, it doesn't work unless the car is moving. In 1963, the California Air Rescources Board mandated that the vapors from the crankcase could no longer be vented into the atmosphere, in the state of California. So all cars sold in California had to have some type of closed system. The Positive Crankcase System was used to comply. It was not new, but had not been used as a matter of course, because it cost the manufacturers more to make it. this system works by drawing filtered air from the air cleaner, and pulling the crankcase vapors into the intake manifold under the carburetor with manifold vacuum. The PCV valve is made to close in low vacuum conditions so the engine doesn't run rough. The PCV valve is also calibrated in size so it doesn't create a massive vacuum leak when open. All PCV valves are not the same. As a plus, the warrantee claims for using oil went down, so by 1965 it was used on almost all domestic cars sold everywhere in the country, even though it was not required. So in addition to being a pollution device, which it is, it also makes the engine run better, have fewer oil leaks, and last longer. So the elements of a PCV, and a road draft system are pretty much the same, an air inlet, and a vacuum to draw the vapors out of the engine. It's just that the PCV works much better than the road draft tube.
I'm not being retarded about it....I rather keep the fluids and vapors where they belong...in my engine. Oil crap under the car? No thanks.....rather have a completely closed system.
wasn't referring to you being retarded. was referring to the discussion about how an open crankcase ventilation system won't work. you've got to pull the vapors out and vent it somewhere. whether it be in a catch can, back to your intake (lowering your effective octane and risk of detonation), or straight to atmosphere. the trick is balancing the amount of blowby gasses entering the crankcase (which cannot be measured) and the amount of fresh air introduced. you can't realistically have a completely closed system: there will always be blowby, and the air HAS to go somewhere. I would prefer not to vent it back to my intake tract
Got this of Nasioc I just walked outside and put a clean fresh clear water bottle in the engine bay. I'll be going home in about 1 hour or so and it's about a 30 min drive. When I get home I'll pull the bottle and report back to what I find. I will drive normal and go WOT once or twice.
Drove home last night and bottle was empty. Drove to work this morning after a cold engine start (19 degrees this morning) and still empty. Details.... Reporting back after a cold morning start.....still clean. Starting with a clean bottle Starting mileage Ending mileage So I drove 24 miles. As you can see bottle was empty last night except for a 'haze' which I believe is normal. Then this morning the exact same bottle and the exact same trip to work which is another 24 miles. I also need to add that I found out that I overfilled the oil pan. I had the wrong dipstick (if you order a 2.5L dipstick and it doesn't have the round finger hole thingy on it...IT'S THE WRONG ONE and is even shorter than the STi dipstick). The killerb oil capacity is unknown but I put in 6 qts and it was about 3/4 qt too much. I have an OCI coming up so I'll measure it out and see how much oil I really need. I think it's gonna be 5 - 5.25 qts. Too much oil in the system = more blow by. Reminds me of my bugeye friend when the dealership changed his oil, but not the filter and overfilled his car by 1.25 qts. He was smoking like a freight train in the parking lot.....that was the last time anyone touched his car other than me or him.
Okay now I'm a little peeved off. I pulled off my intake to install my new KSTech intake minus the MAF (until I can get it tuned) and the entire inside of the piping was absolutely COVERED in oil from the IXIZ AOS. So I pull my FMIC pipes. From the turbo to the IC it was all coated. PISSED ME OFF! Unfreaking acceptable. I dunno if it was from before or what but this is ridiculous. I think I'm gonna catch can the intake side like Doug told me to with a cheapo unit. Now my car sits in the yard with the entire front end pulled off so I can take the IC back off and run lots of gasoline through it and clean all the crud off. I am NOT pleased with this IXIZ unit so far. It's coming off tomorrow for reinspection to make sure nothing is clogged or stopped up. Seriously seriously thinking of selling and getting a Grimmspeed unit or something else.
No. That's why I said I dunno if it was from the overfill. I still get a whiff of fume smells. I'm gonna keep a close eye on the new intake (don't want to ruin another new K&N filter). Also adding a catch can on the intake hose.
Suggestions.... 1)plastic hose bungs suck....mine were distorted and bent. 2) How you do you keep the mayo looking condensation crap from building up? I took the AOS off today and pulled the bungs off to peek inside the aos.....man it was literally full of the mayo crap. Poured in gasoline to clean it all out. It's drying out right now. Now in my honest opinion I think an AOS should work well enough to not clog and stop up. How can we resolve this?
Just a FYI the Crawford ones do the same thing. I am sure the Grimspeed one will have similar results. That is just condensation forming in the can after it has had hot crank case gas flowing through it then it cools off. Any moisture in the system will condense.
Still lots of crap in the lines. Blew them out and installed a Kobalt Air Compressor air sep in between the AOS and the intake. So far clean inside the intake.
Automatic Transmission Fluid fluid? :keke: Back to seriousness... I wonder how the Grimmspeed AOS would work w/out the stock PCV valve hooked up...at all. aka as if it was never there.
Hey Will, what's your initial thoughts on the Grimmspeed AOS? I currently have the Crawford unit and I don't think too much of it.
Well my IXIZ is still allowing a lot of oil by....either that or the turbo is sucking it out the IXIZ AOS before it can drain. Ming says his latest revision has a bigger check valve in the drain. I'm supposed to get one so I guess we will see. However the Kobalt Air compressor water separator isn't working fully. I'm ordering a cheapo ebay catch can. Will stuff it with a SS scrubbie to use a media to catch the oil better. Hopefully I can come up with a solution.
YOu need to chk this first 1. make sure your return line is not clogged. (unplug it from the crankcase not aos) 2. plug both the inlet to the AOS or remove the hose and add a union to both so its closed loop 3. unplug the vacuum line from the intake (not the AOS) 4. blow into the line (prefer low pressure - a person) Look at whats coming out the of the return line and post (since this is the best way you get the msg)
Okay so I take the crank inlet and the head vent inlets and close loop them? Unplug the crank outlet. Unplug the intake vac hose and blow into it? I'll try to vid the thing and send it to you.
^ correct just collect what comes out from the outlet - thats what i want to know if you blow (with mouth) and your eyes are turning red then its clogged dont pass out
Well I just thought of something. I'm still on dino Rotella 15w 40 oil. I've got 3000 miles on the car now so i think I'm going to convert to synthetic this weekend. You think the thicker dino oil could be some of my problems?
That's true. I tested the inlet like Ming wanted me to. Air came right out but nothing out the drain immediately. Then a few seconds later as I was reinstalling the intake hose nasty milkshake looking crude oozed out. I'm gonna run a catch can and vent to the atmosphere. Question. Now there's no vac on the crankcase but it's open to the atmosphere. Is this bad for the engine?