Big turbos and A/O separators

Discussion in 'Modifications & DIY how-to' started by Cool_____, Dec 20, 2009.

  1. integroid

    integroid Supporting Member

    Mike, he already answered the question above.
     
  2. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    Read much? LOL
     
  3. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Oops. I missed that post. Had not updated the page.
     
  4. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    So I'm looking at Crawford's design and it looks like the inner catch can has to fill up and 'overflow' first before the oil starts draining back into the car. I can't see any little holes in the bottom of the inner can. interesting....imagine the type of crap that stuff would be as it has to sit in that inner can for some time.
     
  5. slowwrx

    slowwrx Supporting Member

    The top vent is the vent that goes back to the intake so there shouldn't be much oil in there, plus theres a small drain hole in the bottom of the inner container. The PCV and Heads feed the larger can.
     
  6. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Yup, looking at it, that second can is kind of a second line of defense in case any oil makes it past the initial area.
     
  7. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    I had my ports mixed up. Doh....thanks for clarifying that Matt.
     
  8. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Think we have found a combination that works. Needs some further testing but initial results seem good even under 25 psi pulls.
     
  9. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    Do share please.
     
  10. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    We will wait and see how it is working over the next little while. Going out to do some work on the road with it today.
     
  11. JDM-STI

    JDM-STI Member

    I hope someone finds a system that works. I'm running my Crawford aos venting to the atmoshpere and the smell SUCKS when at idle or driving slowly. If I plumb into the intake, it stops nothing. I want a closed system that actually works like it's supposed to. Hopefully it won't cast an arm and 2 legs.
     
  12. slowwrx

    slowwrx Supporting Member

    I'm just not sure plumbing it back into the intake is a good idea for a big power car. The question that I really want answered is how much oil is really making it back into the intake and how much is it lowering the octane rating of the fuel. If its lowering it a significant amount then thats not ok.
     
  13. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    I have yet to see an AOS that filers out every little bit of oil mist. I am not sure one exists. I would not plumb it back in personally. But, that being said, the combination we have currently on Ben's car seems to be doing ok so far with no cabin smells :) But I want to continue monitoring it for a while to see if it continues to go well. We beat on it on several pulls today with no real collected amount in the AOS or in the output line. Intake is of course still absolutely clean as nothing is getting recirculated back into it, lol.
     
  14. JDM-STI

    JDM-STI Member

    Mine will absolutely soak the inside of the inlet pipe if I plumb it back. Now I have a line running from the top of the Crawford can to a NOS energy drink bottle and there is a few drops in there from about a years worth of use. That tells me that the AOS doesn't work when plumbed like intended. I've always thought that there is a conflict of interest by having the block line on the plumbing being a supply and return line. Seems to me that they would work against each other and not allow for the best oil return. It would have been better to run the return line into the turbo oil return line. At least it makes sense to me. I don't claim to be the smartest guy...:keke:
     
  15. slowwrx

    slowwrx Supporting Member

    When I had Drews car on the dyno it knocked twice at a timing level that it shouldn't have been knocking at. I pulled the AOS line off the intake and all of the sudden it stopped having that problem. That was enough proof for me.
     
  16. JDM-STI

    JDM-STI Member

    My 35r pulled so much oil thru the can at 28psi that oil was dripping from the intake filter. It was rediculous. What a mess in the intake pipe and FMIC. No problems since after I vent to the atmosphere. The smell just SUCKS!
     
  17. nicad

    nicad Yes I am a troll

    so run it through a p-trap, kind of like a toilet. the water will absorb the smell.
     
  18. integroid

    integroid Supporting Member

    Or a bong:)
     
  19. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    The oil return line is effectively a port in the crankcase just like the one on top of the motor. Me personally, I would not want to interrupt the flow of oil back from the turbo. They can be touchy as it is. Good thought though!

    If there is any pressure in the system, it will work against the oil flowing back into the crank case, but that should only be happening on prolonged full throttle pulls. If the oil separator is large enough, it should be able to hold the oil until the pressure subsides and then drain back.
     
  20. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    LS1 smog pump is installed and plumbed in the car. Wiring in a Hobb switch this week. I'll get Doug to test this thing on the dyno. I just need to find a place to mount my catch can. Any ideas?
     
  21. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Good luck with it! I hope that the oil mist does not screw it up. Cool project though.
     
  22. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    Well there's the AOS then it plumbs into a catch can then the pump. So it'll take a bit to get that far.
     
  23. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    I hear ya! I hope it works out for you.
     
  24. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    We'll see.....I don't have much money in it. $10 in the pump and friend has a Hobb switch I can borrow to confirm before buying one. Pump sounds like a jet engine...lol.
     
  25. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Yeah was looking at the BMW ones as from what I have heard, they tend to be more tolerant of oil mist. But if your setup works, hopefully you will catch most of that.
     
  26. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Oh as a FYI, the guys I have talked to running these still see some pressure at full tilt. Might want to install a pop off valve somewhere else or a one way check valve or something.
     
  27. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    I'm tempted to throw some media in the catch can since it's routed to atmosphere.
     
  28. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    What you mean? If they are seeing pressure it'll just blow out. The pump isn't routed to anything and blows out to atmosphere. I don't understand why you think I need a check valve.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2010
  29. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Because the pump may not be able to keep up.
     
  30. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    It still doesn't make sense to me though. What is the need for a check valve?
     
  31. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    you just want to vent the crankcase, you don't want to let outside air / moisture back into the system. The check valve will prevent the crankcase from pulling this back inside when the case is under negative pressure. Mike, was it you who was talking about a mini-style BOV w/ a low low spring in it? Can't remember where I heard that, but it sounds good in theory...opens up under any pressure, but closes itself when none is present
     
  32. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    Meh my line is capped with a filter. It'll be fine. Integroids car does the same.
     
  33. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    As does mine
     
  34. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    I just want to put in a big thanks to everyone that contributed and discussed this matter (goixiz, Mike, nicad, Eddie, Drew, Doug, etc).

    Maybe this weekend I'll get some better concrete info. FYI I haven't smelled the first hint of stinky CC air so far.
     
  35. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Ya, the guy that was running it was running it in conjunction with an electronic vacuum pump. He said that with 30 psi, he was seeing some crank case pressure building even with the vac pump going full tilt, so he installed a small pop off valve that opened at like .5 psi. I guess it is more like a check valve with a seriously weak spring in it.
     
  36. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    Where did he install said valve?

    If pressure is building up it would go into the IXIZ AOS. The drain side will plug up via the check valve in the IXIZ drain line. Rest of the pressure will simply go out via the inlet hose which is aided by the vac pump and vents out to atmosphere.
     
  37. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    On a separate port that was not connected to the vacuum pump.
     
  38. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    So if I am visualizing in my head right (scary eh?), the check valve in the IXIZ is essentially doing the same thing.

    Well I dunno I can see now how not really. Since Drew and Eddie both are doing the same thing I am doing now I don't think I'll have an issue.

    Drew and Eddie how much max boost are you seeing now?
     
  39. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Nope the check valve in the IXIZ is not doing what I am describing. But I am sure yours will work just fine.
     
  40. jeb

    jeb Member

    24-25 psi, but I've spiked 28ish (not on purpose). My boost cut is set at 25, but i onoly hit boost cut when it was about 10 degrees outside and before ball tweaked the temp tables
     
  41. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    ^^^

    That was me
     
  42. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    And last we talked still having issues with the thing at 25 psi right?
     
  43. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    just with building crank case pressure. That's why we unhooked the intake line and dropped it in a coke bottle.
     
  44. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Still squirting oil out into the coke bottle or has that improved? I guess you could say your check valve is your oil dip stick, lol.
     
  45. 07Ltd#767

    07Ltd#767 The Neighborhood Drunk

    ha - we never really had issues with oil making it that far. When I pulled off all of the IC piping this past weekend there was hardly any oil in the inlet
     
  46. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    Just crank case pressure huh? Well we have Ben's Valve cover vents going through a Moroso AOS then venting. The crank case vent we have going through a breather then venting. So far it seems to be working ok...we'll see how it goes over then next couple hundred miles. Since eliminating pressure, there seems to be very little oil. The only thing I want to change at this point is to relocate the AOS to a little higher mounting location. Eventually we want to do some more experimenting with the exhaust evac. But for now this seems to be working ok.
     
  47. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    Going through a breather and then venting on the crankcase vent? Define breather?
     
  48. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    breath·er
    n.
    1. One that breathes, especially in a specified manner: a shallow breather.
    2. Informal A short rest period: took a breather after skiing for two hours.
    3. Informal An activity, such as strenuous exercise, that causes difficult breathing.
    4. A small vent allowing the passage of gas or liquid to or from an enclosed area.
     
  49. Cool_____

    Cool_____ Banned

    What I was trying to say is you a venting via a breather right? Basically a filter on the top of the crankcase vent? For some reason I was envisioning a line, breather, then another line connected to nothing....LOL.

    I know I know.....
     
  50. Mike@TTR

    Mike@TTR Active Member

    You ever seen the little push in breathers that V8 valve covers have? That is effectively what we are running on the crank case vent. The two valve cover vents are going to the AOS then that is venting, also with a filter.
     

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