OK the Siegel sent me a text today and they found the problem...Fuel tank vent diaphragm. He said, "Check your black fuel tank vent diaphragm (on the front of intake). If you blow/suck on the tan part it should NOT be able to move any air." can someone point it out in this picture? Better yet fo my dum azz, edit the picture and circle it. PLEASE
its between the ALT and inlet pipe. Black thing with two larger hoses on each side on the black area and one tiny vac line from the bottom/tan area to the intake manifold.
I thought that was it but I could not see the tan part...Should I pull all the hoses and blow/suck (that statement bound to get some jabs) to test or just the tan part? Thanks Will
well I blew/sucked and nothing but the hose on the right disappeared...how could that happen well it simply was not hooked up. Going on a test drive here soon to see if it stops. EDIT: no luck here back to the drawing board.
Mine got better but it's still doing it. It's definately not as violent now. I've narrowed down the facts though. It ONLY does it if you have the throttle 'cracked' open but not fully closed. I mean 'barely' open. It does it HORRIBLY if the cruise is set and you are going down a hill where the cruise backs off the gas but doesn't fully close the throttle body. Watching the boost gauge if I fully let off the gas the vac will go to -23. It's fine like that. But if you barely crack the TB the vac will be -20 and the annoying studdering will start. So SS and WJM are there any other valves like this one that can be checked?
Will is there a tool that Subaru has that simply checks all the sensor via the OBDII port? Would that be a good next step for them to plug in the diagnosis thingy or is that kinda pointless? What is the typical cost for that if they have such a thing?
The D-check procedure. All it does it cycle everything. Plug the green connectors in an turn IG on/engine off. That cycles everything. However, the SSM2 and SSM3 can actually activate individual ones via menu selection. The solution/problem is most likely EXTREMELY simple.
Sigh where would you start then? Should I start tracing back ALL hoses and such? I'm so lost and I imagine Rick is feeling like I do about the situation.....it makes me so mad I wanna burn the thing.
Updates. I bought a brand new throttlebody with all new sensors on it (MAP, IACV, and TPS) and it didn't do a darn thing. I seems to be a decel under load issue. Let me explain..... 1) Cranks up fine. Idles PERFECT. 2) Rev up the motor in neutral and it catches idle fine. 3) Bounced off the rev limiter and let the rpms drop in neutral. At 1500rpms the idle 'caught' and slowed the needle and did it again at 1000 rpms and then settled at 750 rpms. This is what it is supposed to do EVERYTIME! 4) First gear and no matter what rpm you are at, when you go into neutral and let off the gas the rpms do the steps in #3 above and 'catches' idle. PERFECT! 5) 3rd gear and up it won't 'catch' idle. The needles makes a beeline to zero rpms, revs up to 1200 rpms, falls to zero again, and then either dies or bounces around for 10 seconds until it settles. HELP! I'm seriously getting close to just selling the thing.
dude sounds like yours is worse than mine...Do me a favor let me know in advance the next time you are here so we can verify that we have the same problem. Mine seems to act just like yours BUT never wants to die out but does want to surge or really de-surge as dies off first. Coolrex - has this happened since the DCCD install? I simply have not driven my car enough to remember how it acted before I did the dccd. I am wondering if the continuity on the TPS could be off ever so slightly from the butt connector rather than soldering. just a thought.
I never noticed it. Mine started mid April. I installed the DCCD back in January I think. I have disconnected the DCCD wires but not the TPS wires on the ECU. I will see if I can't undo that wire today at lunch. Remember what color that wire was? I've got my knock light wired in there too so I have several wires going in.
It is NOT the DCCD controller. It is completely powered off and the TPS wire is reset to factory. Some vids of the action. (sorry for the blurry cell phone vids but it was all I had) Video 1 -- I am at a stop light. I revved up the car to show it will catch it's idle. I then get the green light and start moving. I get to 3rd gear and throw the car into neutral. You can see the needle fall and the car dies. Popped started the clutch and did it again with the same result. Video 2: I am in 6th gear at 2000ish rpms when I throw the car into neutral. You can see the needle fall to zero and the car dies (you see the CEL light and others come on). I pop start the car in 6th and cruise for a second or two to build speed back up and then go back into neutral. It almost 'catches' idle, falls to zero and then the needle bounces back up and forth. The entire time I can hear the car struggling to maintain a good idle. Someone help PLEASE! I'll try anything!
dude, that is bad, no wonder you are getting sick of it. Mine does not die at all. I just get the surging, I hope this is not in my future.
Before you sell it, have you thought about taking it to a shop to get diagnosed. WJM or King may be able to help. I know you aren't near, but maybe a trip would be worth it.
All this modding you and Rick have done has finally caught up with ya, lol. Damn people with their fast cars. Good luck finding the problem though!
I won't sell it....I'm just frustrated. WJM may be getting a visit from me but I'd have to justify that 5 hr trip by knowing that I tried ABSOLUTELY everything myself first. I'm a very good mechanic I just don't have the tools that the Subaru dealerships have like the SSM2 or whatever you call that thingamajig.
There was an episode of the PRON where somone took an RS in with an idle / heisitation problem to a subaru dealer. Ended up being a bad ECU. Proper tools / equipment may be needed here.
Yep. I may just visit the local dealer who is 5 mins from work. They told me $84. That sound about right WJM?
I'm back to thinking I have a nasty leak that I just can't find. Why? Well while cruising my Air Fuel Correction is EVERYWHERE and reading 11-25 (25 is the max it can do). Air Fuel Learning sits at 14.8. Arrrgggghhh. It doesn't help that I'm deaf and I can't hardly hear when I am leak testing.
I've done that. It's gonna be a hard one to find. I suspect the Perrin Turbo inlet or something. I just need to go get a compressor. I'm tired of driving everywhere to use everyone elses.
Will do. Thanks to WJM for the tons of PM's back and forth trying to help! Hopefully I find this thing....if not then I will find a smoke tester and try that. Then as a last resort I'll freaking drive the car to SoJax.
Well well well....The APS 50/50 is leaking bad. pressure tested and armed with some heavy soapy water I went to town. I made the sweetest leak tester where I can set the psi and walk away from it. I sprayed everything. The inlet to turbo was 'slightly' leaking but when I sprayed the BOV it literally threw bubbles floating free form into the air. So I'm modding a stock bov and hoping it'll hold. My buddy Daniel is boosting 26 psi like me and his is holding. I hope this will resolve my issue. WJM is the BOV is leaking that bad on a pressurized system....can that mean the same when the car is in vacuum which is where my issue lies?
Its possible, especially with a larger turbo/FMIC. I know that stock at idle a BOV leak will not cause what you are seeing... CRUSH IT!!!!!!!!!!
Installed the stock BOV for the time being. It freaking leaks at the metal adapter on the recirc part. But not as bad because the car is not dying now and the Air Fuel corrections is no longet 14-25 range but 0-11 range and occasionally dips into negatives. Runs much smoother now. It'll work until I get a new BOV ordered.
The BOV is the only double gasket thats not bad. Its a rubberized coating on both sides of a metal 'sheet'...the coating is rather soft. It'll seal right up using two of them. Two will be able to take up the slack of an uneven flange. One does just right on two equally flat surfaces.
for this other location...are you talking about the angled elbow thats attached to the BOV with two phillips headed screws that sends the air back to recirc into the inlet pipe? If so, thats a simple oring. A universal kit/assortment will have what you need.
Fixed leaks and the problem is back to it's original state. Okay I'm about to sell this car if I can't fix this.
just out of curiosity, will this happen because i have a leak in the radiator? i had the same problem and i took my car to a shop, and when they did the pressure test on the radiator, the entire bottom was leaking.. my car was already on a limp mode (i think) from removing my AP, and i guess because the radiator was leaking and the car was overheating, the ecu may have freaked out.. it wasnt very fun driving at 20 mph not to overheat the car to the shop which is about 20 miles from my house.. i checked the CEL, but it was just for the front o2 sensor..(which was expected because i have a catless up and dp without the AP right now..)
Not from the leak but it 'may' from the high coolant temps associated with the leak. WJM is seeing me either Friday or Saturday next week so hopefully this gets solved.