it turns out the radiator that they replaced mine with had a huge crack on the bottom, and when they did the pressure test, the entire bottom was leaking... but i hope it's just the radiator that is causing all this, because i would be really scared to drive a car that will just shut off... when my car has 105k miles, and my dad's lexus has close to 200k and his has ZERO problems, you start to wonder if subaru is actually reliable...:coolugh: but yea, my car would drop the rpm lower than the 500 mark, and then catch itself back up, or just shuts off.. either way the car drops rpm VERY close to zero every time i slow down to a stop. i`m sure that's not very good for the car. would a tune from scott fix this? :sx:
ok, you do have a valid point :rofl::rofl::rofl: but i thought the mods i have are good for my car???? (even though i`m sure without the AP, it's not running the way it is supposed to run). anyways, i miss my car... it's in the shop again :squint:
Back on topic now... FIXED! How you might ask? Simple: CR shows up, I put the SSM3 on and check all the switches; idle, neutral, AC, PS, cam/crank sensors, etc etc as well as making sure that the fuel trims are good at idle. OK, the idle switch is jumpy when you touch the throttle, sometimes will not return to an idle state. EXAMINE! Throttle cables are adjusted way too tight. Adjusted! Idle is MUCH better. Now its time for a drive. CR states that the idle hunts in 1st/2nd and low speed 3rd gear once you go to neutral/clutch in. Ok, its duplicated. Hunting idle during neutral/clutch in below 40~45mph in 1/2/3 gears. Now we get some speed, 50~55 and clutch in. STALL! Immediate start up while at speed...STALL again! Restart-revmatch-into 5th gear, hit F2 on the SSM3 to end data capture and find a spot to park and examine data. Fuel trims are funny...MAF is 'ok'...TPS is good, cam/crank is good, AFR is 'ok'...MAF voltage is 'ok'.... Somethings not right....back to the the point of stall. HEY! Whats this bump in MAF voltage/grams per second at the point where idle is supposed to 'catch'?? Strange. Everything else is good, except the injector pulse width corresponds with the MAF bump. Back to the shop. Open hood...BLAMO! A very nicely done shade tree cold air duct. The K&N filter and MAF housing is at just the right angle that the duct is, while at speeds, allowing air to be blow directly onto the filter. REWIND!!! I seem to remember perrin big maf setups that were right on top f the radiator fan that when the fans came on the car would go ape shit trying to figure out what the fucks going on! AND the same while at higher speeds. Ok, remove ducting! Next, shove a towel into the fender well hole and block the MAF/Filter assy from 'ram air' from the front. Test drive! VOILA! No more hunting return to idle in 1/2/3 below 50mph! Time for a 60mph clutch in....VOILA! PERFECT!!!! Ok, 70...again, perfect catch! Now lets try illegal speeds on the interstate...VOILA!!! PERFECT!!! We go at it a few more times and it never falters, always catching back to idle perfectly. CR now starts brainstorming a fiberglass box/enclosure and some way to baffle the incoming fresh air such that the air does not blow directly on the filter/maf. Somewhat challenging to come up with due to the ABS block, FMIC piping and the other goodies he has installed. Now CR wont have to sell his car....like gotsol did. :keke:
All I have to say is WJM is the FREAKING MAN! He's my hero. It's amazing how quick he diagnosed the car. It was less than 30 mins. Thanks Will
Nothing like a happy ending........not that kind...filth! Glad you-all figured it out man! That was a PITA that would not go away.
I think he means the cold-air ducting was blowing on it at speed... CR, I'm glad your car is perfect again It seems like sometimes it "takes a village" to keep these cars happy Siegel
No. A similar situation prompted me to re-examine the cold air ducting that was ducting the air directly onto the filter/maf tube.
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Now I think I am going to loosen my throttle cable a bit as I tightened it a while back and that perhaps is causing my surging.
aka the stock one. You should find some way to fit a stock airbox with fresh air feed in w/FMIC setup.
I'm not selling the car now. Updates....the car has been PERFECT. I've tried 1000 times to get her to stall and die and failed at it. I'm driving her until the doors fall off
but my airbox IS stock??? granted the car hasnt stalled after i got my radiator fixed (back from the shop), it still idles funky..extremely low when i go into neutral to slow down. i really think it's the problem with not having my AP though..