There haven't really been any boost fluxations that I've noticed and I have given the ol' MAF a cleanin, plus its only about 6 months old. And yes the AFRs a little worrisome. While I don't disagree about getting a tune, theres a couple reasons why I can't/don't wont to right now. The main problem being that the flash block was not wired in when the original swap was performed, so no flashing. Though I'm going to try to get that going this weekend. The other thing is that I think there's definitely something else going on and tuning to fix it would just be a bandaid. Also this isn't just a constant problem that has always been about the same. It has good days and bad days, and has slowly been getting worse, and the car ran great for a very long time without a tune... but anywho thanks for the advice.
the problem is his STFT and LTFT, the hesitation and rythmic hesitation. I've driven plenty of stock ecu'd WRX's with TBE's and other mods, they were fine. shifty's has issues that are not related to the mods.
Thats what she said, no but really... for instance, tonight I broke the T connector in the vacuum line that the turbo timer hooks into... so no boost gauge until I find a replacement for that tiny ass piece of plastic.
For today's installment, I have learned some new things. I fixed up my pressurize gadget and hooked it up again. Found a leak in the hose between the intercooler and throttle body. Found a small leak in what I think is the oil separator gasket (back on the passenger side of the engine block near the turbo?). Haven't exactly fixed that one yet. But then I found the scariest leak, Injector #3! Upon barely touching it the the leak got worse. I don't know if that leak was always there or if I managed to cause it by pressurizing the system, but I made very sure to never go over 12 psi. Either way, should I drive with the injector leaking?
I'm guessing just need a new o-rings, insulators. Dealership is the only place to grab those right? Edit: More thoughts. So as mentioned before I'm logging injector duty cycles at 100%, even though apparently I shouldn't be. Should I take this time since I'll be into the injectors already to get some larger injectors? If yes, is a tune needed with bigger injectors? I worked on the ECU wiring to see if I could get it into a flashable state. Everything seems to be in order, but still no ROM reading. So no tune possible... Also, anybody local have some spare injector insulators and o-rings??
Ok, after a couple hours of absolute fun I have all four injectors out (I recommend that everyone try it, its a blast). Didn't see any obvious large problems. But while I have them out and am trying to source new rings and insulators, is there any kind of cleaning I can/should do to the injectors?
I'd send them off to be cleaned/checked out. That would eliminate the possibility of an injector issue. BTW injectors are fun.
Oh word. So you any recommendations as to where? How long does such a service take, since this is my only ride...
ummm....http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/injector_services.php No bad reviews from them. They have done TOP QUALITY work on stock modified injectors.
Just got the call from DeatschWerks, the injectors are good and on the way back. Any gotchas I should know about when re-installing them?
use NEW orings (at the top of the injector that seal it into the fuel rail). As long as the seals from the injector to manifold are still soft...aka not hard as a rock...you can reuse those.
OMG I got my car back together... I'm shocked. Ok, so are my troubles over? Probably a little early to say, but tonight's test drive proved promising. Its running smooth and I couldn't reproduce my earlier rhythmic hesitation or any stumbling, plus no CEL yet. If the problems are resolved I'm not sure I'll know exactly what fixed it, I touched on so many pieces during the last couple weeks. I'm gonna give it a couple more days of driving before I get too excited.... fingers crossed.
In the meantime, enjoy some pics of the coolest garage ever. (The roommates STi) http://okijuh.com/g1.jpg http://okijuh.com/g2.jpg http://okijuh.com/g3.jpg
Ok, another 40 minute ride in the books with no problems, still gonna give it a couple more days. Question, is there any reason that I should just suck it up and try to get the passenger side GBOD back on or should it be ok in a box in my garage?
Word. So its been about 100 miles and still looking good. Maybe I will be able to auto-x after all. Also, I appreciate all the feedback from everyone, especially you Will. Though, if anybody remembers my first post where I offered the name of my firstborn to whoever came up with the specific diagnosis, it looks like it still gets to be me. Tyrannosaurus Rex Underwood it is.
Well.. first thing to note, a forgot to connect the hose from the purge valve back to the inlet (the inlet did have a nipple on it, or i would have obviously been having some serious issues.) I know that the purge valve has something to do with emissions? Can somebody explain its exact function? Apparently it WASN'T a big issue leaving it unplugged.. Also, I have noticed a couple small stumbles, and just once I felt the faintest rythmic hesitation in low throttle, low rpm, higher load. It was so faint I don't think anybody else would have noticed. Otherwise it is definitely running much smoother than before. EDIT: WASN'T not WAS
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1263513&highlight=purge+valve that pic in the first post
This kinda explains it http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1389636&highlight=purge+valve
we're talking about the purge valve not the purge control solenoid valve. two different things entirely.
well they work together, the purge valve is that plastic piece with 3 hoses, the purge control solenoid valve is under and plumbed to it.
An update: The stumbling and rhythmic hesitation is back (no misfires though), but so is my uppipe leak. I'm gonna try patching it one more time, if that fails again, new uppipe time... hoorah.
I figured I'd keep all my issues in one post. When cleaning up some of the oil/dirt caked under the altenator, I noticed the seal around the timing belt cover has come up in a couple places (see pictures). I'm thinking its probably not a big deal right? http://okijuh.com/looseseal.jpg http://okijuh.com/looseseal2.jpg
oil has saturated the 'dust seal' for the timing belt cover. You need to find the source of the oil leak and fix it, along with replacing the affected dust seals to keep contaminants out of the timing belt system. No big deal on non-interference systems...but yours...will bend all 16 valves if something bad happens.
Well thats just great. I don't even know what that means... Also as a side note, I am definitely going to need a new new uppipe, being that the bottom weld on my current has several cracks in it... Why can't I just ever be done...
It means you might have a front seal leak. If you want to "ever be done" buy an 08 wrx" That will last you a couple of months HA. But honestly that is one bad ass car you have..so it's worth it! You just inherited some neglect. Take care of it, if you hate it that much I'll buy it from you;D "Why can't I just ever be done"...Answer: Because it's modded! up-pipe: Turbo XS flex(has worked well for me)
it means...that if you break the timing belt and things go to shit... Interference: pistons will hit valves and they will bend. BAD Non-Interference: pistons and valves will get close but no bending action. Good! Valve cover gaskets would not leak all the way over there.
How big of a job is it to get to and replace the dust seal on the timing belt cover? Hours and hours? Something I should try to take care, or take it in at $100 an hour?
You know you don't have anything better to do. I can "help" you any time tomorrow or Wednesday if you want.
n00b. Its only page 3. I'd charge you $50 for that. Otherwise, I'm sure any shop will charge 2~3 hrs to get to it and replace the seal.
in your options for forum display you choose how many posts per page. I'm on 40 per page, the max allowed. So this post, being post #99, is on page 3. When we hit 120, page 4 will start. Its US dollars. If Europe I'd charge you about 30 euro.