Nygiant's 2008 WRX Wasn't sure where else to put this so I hope Off Topic is ok... So I'm looking to start modding the car again. Little background...I am sitting at 103k miles...motor still runs great, ever so slightly doesn't feel as powerful as it used to but hey, what can be expected being stage 2 for 73k miles. I change the oil every 4k like clock work with t6, do 90% highway, hit max boost maybe a few times a week, and just try to treat the car well and not beat it to shiz. It does have a vf52 which was put on at 30k miles. My current mod list: SGP Optional Front Lip Magnaflow CBE VF-52 Torqued Performance Stage 2.52 tune Progress Springs Koni Struts Perrin F/R Sways AEM DryFlow Filter WeatherTech front mats Perrin 1-Piece DP Torque Solutions Pitch Stop Rota DPT 17x9 245/40 Sumitomo HTRZ III StopTech SS Lines & Pads Now what I am looking to move forward to is: new motor build with a vf48 + all supporting mods (aiming for 350whp and keeping it mostly oem for DD reliability) 18x8.5 rota grid in bronze OR 18x8.5 rota dpt in bronze brembos f/r roof vane spoiler feal coils (the progress springs and konis are starting to suck, might be on their way out) jdm yellow fogs from SMY GTSPEC D steering wheel and lastly, a nice professional detail Now I'm curious...I'm due for timing belt and water pump in a couple thousand miles. While I am about fed up with my current suspension set up because it feels like ass now, would it make more sense to get the suspension done now and continue saving for the motor? Or get the motor done now so I won't be dishing out the money for the timing belt/water pump only to pull the motor out a year or so later? I fell like that'd be money wasted, ya know? If I did go the suspension route , would the motor be ok for another year (25k-30k miles) As far as the specifics of the motor build, I didnt want anything too crazy. Just some fun power/reliability that will last another 100k+. As I mentioned in MadMallard's thread, Wes at Allpro suggested I just do a new block with a vf48 + tmic, injectors, fuel pump, ebcs, etc. But other people have been telling me to just stick with the vf52 because the flow is the same. So I'm undecided there. Thoughts?
I really do not see the point in going from a VF52 to a VF48 unless your VF52 isn't working right. The timing belt I would NOT skimp on.....20-30k miles is a lot of risk. If it was only 5-10k I'd say you would probably be fine. Also why a new motor build? If the current engine is still running strong then drive it while it's running. If you want to build to be prepped that's one thing but it sounds like you want to build and go ahead and swap the engine.
I completely forgot that I made this thread. But I guess I still provide some type of update…also can someone move this to the builds section? Thanks But in regards to your response, my apologies…I was getting the terminologies mixed up. Can you tell I’m a noob to engine build stuff? Be patient with me as I am learning What I meant was that it was explained to me that it’d be best to go ahead with a “new motor” now while the current one still has some life left in it so that it can be sold to someone else and offset the cost of the new motor. What I was referring to by “build” was directed to the new motor in order to increase its power potential and reliability over a bone stock new motor. Someone please correct me if my line of thinking is off. But I digress…I went ahead and got the timing belt/water pump taken care off, so since the motor is still running great, I’ll leave that alone for the time being.
I also was blessed with new KW V.1 coilovers as a birthday gift from my family, and got those put in too. Compared to the suspension that was on the car before, it is a night and day difference. Awesome ride, very smooth. Perfect ride height set up by Allpro. I got the alignment done by GTE…check out the print out. The guy told me that I needed rear camber arms to kick the camber back within spec. He highly suggested this bc I am running Sumitomo HTRZIII tires, and he went on to say that Sumitomos do no like camber at all....that they heat up real bad and start wearing all crazy. I mentioned bushings but he insisted on arms. What is everyone’s thoughts on this? Specs on bushings state an additional .75 degrees of range which is plenty for my case, and on top of that, they’re a lot less expensive that arms. While the ride is awesome with the new coilovers, I would still like to firm things up just a tad. Any recommendations for bushings?
TiC is the place to go for bushings, best to call or email them before purchase as they can recommend what you need.