The Life of the Black Knight

yeah dude this does suck.....seeing it leak like that....I'll never do meth on my wagon....too many war stories......

 

One unforunate incident does mean it is a bad idea, there are countless EVO, SRT-4, Grand Nationl owners who are running the same setups with zero problems. Power is power, so there is always a chance for problems, that is the tradeoff.

 

There is always a chance for problems, but I choose to limit the chances the best way I know how, Meth pumps have lots of know failures those failures can cost you a motor.

It looks like we are going to be running a Hydra, I might be willing to try there setup because if it fails then it reverts back to a known good map.

Matt

 

:eek4:sorry to hear dude. I tend to lean on the nitrous side of things myself but those too can cause problems if not careful. hopefully things will work out for the best without losing more $$

 

I have the solution:





FTW.

 

No more meth for me.

 

Now, that is a good idea, hydramistt is pretty cool.

How fast does o2 sensors cover up with lead with C16? I lean more towards the 100 octane unlead/ Motorsport 109

 

No no no...he said

HYDRA

not hydramist.

a Hydra is this: http://www.hydraems.com/

Its a step below the AEM...however, since the hydra is available as a plug and play for 2004~2006 USDM STi....hydra would be the choice for standalone EMS...the AEM would take some work to make it work...like converting to a cable throttle system.

 

I think Matt is talking about running Hydramist on the hydra system, which cuts boost and reverts to a non-methanol map once the system detects a problem with the methanol system, then again what do i know ...

 

WHAT...I thought you had the best luck with pumps for the length of use. Or your beast is soooo bad now it does not need it.

 

I've installed those fail safe systems...they work well.

 

The HydraMist is designed only for water though. Phil Grabow (Element tuning) uses smurf piss though....the blue windsheild wiper stuff.

 

i'm sorry about all the hangups milo, there's nothing shittier than going in for power and coming out with technical failures... the bright side is at least nothing essential to your base setup broke. why not just set up a map for c16?

i've toyed with the idea of running meth, but i hear nothing but pump failure and thinning of the oil stories.

 

It took 6 months of Racegas use for us to kill an 02 sensor.

C-16 is the only way to go as far as Race Fuels are concerned. Its totally synthetic so its by far the most consitent fuel out there and its easy to find. For One Lap Next Year we are going to have C-16 Delivered to the tracks that we can't get it at.

Edit, use Ill be using the Hydra and possibly the Hydra Mist....It depends really on how good the deal is and if once we get done testing it, if I feel its safe.

One of the things I didn't like about Meth is that the throttle response doesn't feel as clean and crisp as Race Gas, the car just doesn't snap like it does on Race Gas. Siegel will tell you I'm pretty critical about the way the throttle feels and we went through a lot of diffrent TPS Tables to make the throttle feel like I wanted it.

 

Ill second that, race gas ftw.

Fyi, my o2 sensor failed after about 11 gallons of leaded fuel.

 

11 gallons, that's it?

 

If it failed after 11 gallons then it was going to fail soon anyway. If the car isn't specifically tuned for race gas it will kill sensors fast.
Matt

 

Checked my pump and it isn't leaking a drop. It's been 2-3 months so far so typically it would be leaking by now.

There's nothing wrong with meth injection if you are smart. Check your pumps. Also Meth doesn't thin out your oil any more than gasoline. I've sent oil analysis out from two different stages. One was me running purely off gasoline and the other with meth injection. NOTHING was different in either test. If you are getting meth in your oil then your piston rings are on their way out or the car just isn't tuned right to get the optimal burn.

 

My 02 sensor saw at least 50 gallons of c16 before I replaced it. Turns out it was still good and was not the cause of my current misfire issues. I always ran it 3-5 gallons at a time and when I was done at the track (drag strip) I would immediately top it off. I would imagine running a full tank at a time would shorten its life quicker.

As for meth. The valves in my old heads look like ass. The coatings on all of them are gone and I suspect meth has something to do with it.

I'd love to see what the valves look like on other peoples cars who have been running meth for a couple of years.

 

Sucks to hear about all the hang ups, The need for power and speed always comes with a price.

mmmmm the smell of race fuel...

 

Well when I pull out my EJ205 next year you will see. There's over 70K miles of meth use on my car now.

 

WTF

 

I am contemplating C16 but I'm averse for 2 reasons.
1) I'm running a catted downpipe. I'll need to swap it out to catless, but I am not clear about emmissions laws in other states (especially TX)
2) I want to be able to switch maps on demand. C16 would require me to run my pump gas tank dry, then fill up with C16. Looks like too much planning. It is perfect if you are involved with a lot of racing, but most of my driving is on the street and would like to be able to swap over to a high power map on demand.

Last Friday was extremely disappointing. I am still ticked off, and am traveling, so I have not decided how exactly I wish to proceed from here. Scott and I were discussing setting up aq really simple and cheap failsafe using the PLX R-500.

 

My pump is leaking ever so slightly but it is. Guess I spoke too soon.

 

anyone running coolingmist kits?? are their kits better/more reliable than SMC?

 

I retract my previous statement about the hydra, it looks like I am staying with the AP2

 

Why is that? Start a new thread so we don't off topic.

 

CoolRex: You probably have done more research on this than I have. But do you know how many people have had issues with the new pumps? I'll do some searching on NASIOC and IWSTI.

 

I'm surprised that the pumps that come with these kits aren't engineered that well.

 

Milo you will see a few here and there but for the most part either people are being quiet or they are calling SMC and Steve is replacing them. I can't give you a total figure. I do know that if my current pump does fail then I'm done until I get the Hydra which then I will get the Hydramist.

 

Oops

Totally forgot this was Milos build thread...my bad.

 

Hey Milo who Powder coated your rims? Clear coat on mine are peeling so may be time for a 'new' look

 

I believe it was Miller Powdercoating.

 

Not gonna read everything, but looking at the pictures and some posts I can tell your car is gonna be sick. Very nice set up you got going there Milo, keep it up.

 

Yup

Thanks bro.

 

Possibly. I was mixing leaded fuel for my 100oct map.

 

Had a full brake job done at SOG yesterday. This included a fluid flush and bleed, Power Slot front rotors, XP10 front pads, and XP8 rear pads. Moving from the Panther Plus pads to the XPs was a significant upgrade. I am utterly amazed at how good the pads bite. Everyone said I would need to track it to bring the pads up to temp. But even with normal highway driving, these pads really stop the car. They are not anywhere close to as noisy as I expected them to be. Right now, they seem really streetable. However, I am going to wait until after Tally to decide how much I like them. If they are still streetable after that, I might leave them on the car for daily driving.

The reason why I didn't do this myself: a fiasco with Firestone on Howell Mill. I had taken my car down there for them to swap a tire after I had a flat. Yesterday was the first time I tried to unmount my wheels from the car. The wheel that Firestone had touched had 4/5 lugnuts BADLY cross threaded. 3 of the studs broke off while I tried to take the nuts off. The 4th one was badly chewed up. I could have taken it down there to have them fix it, but I figured that if they couldn't even put lugs back on the car correctly, then I don't want them touching it at all. I took it up to SOG to have the studs replaced. Since the car was up on the lift, the front rotor was off, and I am otherwise really pressed for time with school, I figured I'd have Bob take care of it all. He was really fast with everything and did a great job. The brake pedal is as firm as a rock . I also had a chance to meet the new service manager. He seemed like a real nice, courteous guy who likes Subarus like we like them. It's nice to have an enthusiast like him holding his position at SOG.

I have the broken studs with me. I'm going to take them down to Firestone and show them to the store manager. I don't want any money from them, just want to show them why they will never see me as a customer again.

 

lugs: that's just fucking retarded.

brakes: good to hear man

 

Dude that's plain stupid, careless, and retarded about those lugs. I bet that they put the lugs back on with an airgun and not hand threading them on first. I hate air tools for that reason.

 

Milo..... go to GTE next time! Sorry to hear about your lugs!

 

I went down to Firestone and told the manager about the problem and showed him the broken studs as proof. He was real nice and offered to reimburse me for the amount I spent on replacing the nuts. I told him that it would mean more if they could ensure that something like this never happens again to anyone. He said that he would take the necessary steps.

 

That's good to hear. Whether they do it or not is the question.

 

After burning oil at the time attack, I figured it would be good to check the compression. Liquidforce ran the test for me (thank you ). All 4 cylinders registered ~140psi. We had a slight scare at first when #2 registered just under 130psi. We rechecked it and it was up to ~140psi. Figured we couldn't make a mistake to make it read higher, so the low reading was probably because of a poor seal. I haven't done any research on what an acceptable reading would be, but it was consistent with all 4 cylinders so it must be right.

Now that I know the motor is good, I got 2 things on the list: (1) Crawford air/oil separator and (2) tune for meth+water injection. Wonder which one I'll do first :naughty:

 

Good to hear

Can Mike check mine compression too, plus I probably need to gap the plugs. Payment of a 6pack should be enough I hope

 

140 is good

 

How much oil did you burn/use/consume?

What was your oil temps on track?

What was the oil pressure while on track?

Before you do the A-O separator, confirm if you are sucking the oil out of the crankcase and burning it, or if you are burning it due to over temp.

 

Didn't check wither one. But there was a lot of oil in the engine bay, EXACTLY where the dump tube was pointed. Also, people said it was coming from under the car, not from the exhaust.

 

The oil is only burning when it hits the downpipe. He is basically overfilling the catch can and pouring it on the engine.